Not to rain on your idea but here's the problem, All engines are not built the same
, Some are built for max power, HP.Some are built for max Torque. Some are for drag racing, some for endurance roadracing. I think you get the point. The rod and main bearing clearances are all different. Alum block differ from iron block. Cast crank or steel. The blue print numbers have changed since the old days. .003 rods and .003 mains. Mine are alot tighter than that.
Oil is different today than 30 years ago. No
zinc and other additives. I may part of the country, the lawyers would have a field day with something in print and if the motor blewup,SUE BABY SUE. The info had better be from God's lips to your ears. Fe forumn and CC have alot of members in both. GOOD info is coming and going in both directions. You still have Old school and New school with a 40+ year old motor that mags thought was dead. BOY where they ever WRONG.
I like the beehive springs in my car. New school, very few will run them, old school. 40 grams lighter and 3-400 rpm more rev without any float. They use only 140 lbs seat pressure. Not 200-400 lbs. You can put up to a .750 total lift cam in the motor and turn 7,500 rpm without float. The valves are not bouncing off the seats. The new thing is good seat to valve angles on the backcuts of the valves. proper multi back cuts can be good for another 5-15 hp. I am going with 11/32 valves in new motor, not 3/8. I looked at titanium valves, but found that they are for the intake ONLY. GM Learned this the hard way when they sold the ZO6 crate motor. Exhaust valves where breakin. The other thing is that KCR,Gessford Machine,Southern Machine and others may a living from us. They have bills and families to feed. If they gave out all the latest info and we could do this yourselves, how long could they stay in bussiness
Any way, if you are spending all this time typing, your motor is not in the car and running with GOOD
OIL PRESSURE
Get the motor fixed. Rick L