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Originally Posted by lineslinger
767 Jockey,
I understand your need to finesse the budget. I spent over 18 months prudently ( I hope ) collecting components for my big block build.
You sound like you are developing a proven philosophy.
Build a rock solid bottom end.
One that will handle whatever changes you employ to the top end down the road.
Reliability and strength on the bottom end allows much more flexibility later on.
A block that has been tested and proven. Do your best to install the highest quality crankshaft, pushrods and pistons you can afford.
Spend your bucks on a solid base and use the KISS method up top until your budget allows for the improvements you desire.
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Lineslinger,
That's exactly my plan. I can upgrade the top later as funds allow without yanking the whole assembly from the car. I want reliability above and beyond all else. I don't want to squeeze every last drop of horsepower from the old girl only to watch it hand grenade a short time later. Once the reliability factor is met, THEN I'll look for as much power as I can possibly squeeze out of it within that parameter.
I'm looking at the Scat stroker kit with H beam rods and ARP bolts, Clevite bearings, top quality forged pistons pistons. Block will be fresh bored, decked, align hones,
oil passages in the back drilled and tapped so they don't leak (see, I DO read the threads!). I'll spend the extra $300 or so to have the rotating assembly professionally assembled, then do the rest myself. Hydraulic rollers should ease the break in worries, and the money spent on the Ersons should ease my valvetrain worries as well.
Now, reading this post and the first one I wrote, as well as what Jeff added above, what do you guys think? I'm open to all suggestions, comments, concerns, etc. I'm new at the whole FE thing and no doubt have lots to learn. I'd be interested in power estimations for the stock heads and the ported Edelbrock heads, as well as any and all info someone may have on just what these stock heads are and the limitations they present.