philminotti Phil I don't know how many years 767 jockey has been a mechanic.This is why I would tell him to go to a GOOD knowed FE machinist. If this was a chevy SB motor, I would say you can do it. The worst thing that would happen is blowing up the motor and going to the junk yard and getting another motor or block. There is not alot of FE motors in the yards any more. Look at how many threads you read on blowup motors,spun bearings bent valves twisted rods,etc. I do the same thing you do with assembling a motor and recheck all the spec's. I learned old school, but stay up to date with new school and ideas. Rod bolt stretch method is only what, 5 years old. We are finding out this is a better method than the old tork to 52-55 ft lbs. If you go with the stretch method the tork on the bolts is in the 63-67ft of tork. This is a big different.
I checked my short block and let my machinist put it together. He has an iron block, I have a Shelby block and my clearances are tighter than the iron by alot. It is less than the blue print or .0025-28 for rods and .0027-30 for mains. I also run a 100 psi spring in the
oil pump, HVHP melling pump. I peroil the motor before startup. I have read on a number of buildups about wiping out cams and other problems with motors just rebuilt. If it was easy to do everybody would assembly there own. I also only run 1 valvespring on breakin, and they have 100 k miles on them. They are soft but breakin just fine. In the old days you could just pour the
oil in and fire it up. NOT today. This is what the experence people have learned. First time builder, go and let the machinist built it. MY 2 cents Rick L. Ps find out what it would cost for the crank,rods, and pistons to get done for the block, machine work and then get a stroker kit price. I think you will be within 3-400 dollars, and have all new parts. It worth the different.
