[Rebel1]

Baz, don't get the chassis work done yet.

I have found the sort of chassis work you refer is best left to the end.

Certainly have it laser checked but leave the painting till later.

You may well want to weld bits and pieces or make changes that would ruin your chassis finish. However, I am not familiar with the inclusions on latest chassis but essentially mine is an early version of your chassis. Still the twin side rail type but they now may well include some bits left off. Handbrake mount for instance. RMC used to just mount the lever to the glass tunnel and you'd almost rip it off in use.....I welded a bracket to the chassis to which the handle mounts.

I have also found the Jag diff mounting varies from chassis to chassis. I had to drill mine to properly fit the diff center. A friend of mine was impatient fitting his diff and fitted it as the factory recommends. He can no longer get the diff out of the car.

You will also find the RMC has a very narrow tunnel. This is good as it makes for a wide footbox and extra width for seats, but makes fitting later gearboxes a bit of a challenge needing some metalwork.

Fitting the L76 has been easy with the only modification being a rework of the alternator position. This is not unusual with the chev as the alternator is mounted to the lower left of the engine right where the chassis steps up over the steering rack.

You may want to also cut the inside top corners off the footboxes to give you a bit more room to get at spark plugs and decent bends on your headers.

If you want any advice re this give me a yell.