Coupeup Doug before you start all this repair, do 2 things, FIRST call KCR and ask about retorque the head gaskets.
Some don't get retorque. I run an all Aluminium motor and have not done this once. No sealers added to the coolant system either. If you have a leak there is a reason for it. The head gasket could be the failure and will just keep leaken until you over heat the motor or coolant gets into the motor and you have a chocolate shake in the motor and need all new bearings. They sell a dye for the coolant to find the leak, where it is dripping MAY NOT be where the coolant is leakin out of. The dye and black light are about $50.00 and the kit helps find any leak you want.
Oil, Coolant, Transmission, even AC systems. What motor are you running? All Aluminium? Aluminium heads and iron block? All iron? The first 2 have expansion issues, the second choice is the worst of the 2. Two different metals rubbed the head gaskets faster than the others. Let KCR guide you through this repair, If there is a problem down the road, you can go back to them for answers. The other guys have good ideas to fix it and you don't want to lay the car up but, you LOOSE that motor then it cost how much???
and get a bill for $3,000.00 for rebuild.
You are not going to be happy. IMO I would pull the top of the motor and replace BOTH head gaskets, check and clean the top of the motor and reassembly. Note I use Hi-Tac spray on all my motors. I know the gasket manufactures don't like it being used. I ran my motor racing for 8 years and no leaks other than the rear main seal. ( it's marking for the she cobras)
If KCR said to retorque than follow his suggestions. Note time and who you talked too for this, just in case this doesn't work. Retorque is old school with steel head gaskets, most gaskets now are multi composite layered and don't need this operation done. Maybe a check after the first breakin, but at 6,000 miles, no.
IMO Rick L. Ps I wouldn't hurt to check the studs or bolts, but either way KCR still gets a call.
