View Single Post
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2008, 05:24 AM
Double Venom's Avatar
Double Venom Double Venom is offline
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Pentwater, Mi
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
Posts: 5,352
Send a message via AIM to Double Venom
Not Ranked     
Default

dvcobra,
You are running exactly what I ran for auto cross how ever the rear bar is critical but I did REMOVE the front bar. The front bar is the one that is to heavy not the back one. If you have a little ability it is very easy to make a front bar of lighter material. (SPEEDWAY.COM has all the material you need to put one together.) The one I used with the "Double Venom" cars with the Viper engines- over 150 lbs lighter than a Ford BB all dressed.) was a tubular design roughly a 1/2 in diameter.

OK, a few tips I learned at Hondas track; what motor are you running, do you know the weight on the front. What rate springs are you using? Adjusting the fronts- good luck and if you find a better way please let me know!
I ended up taking the front springs apart and putting a thin but even coat of "anti-seize" on the front coil threads. Makes track adjustments much easier!

If you saw the thread about boxing in the rear lower control arms and haven't done it, this is the perfect reason to do so.

Scales? Have you had your car scaled? Very easy, time consuming and critical for auto-crossing, You will or should be able to get a CR cobra right at
48/52% with a driver in the car. Move your battery to the right hand pocket of the trunk. (Please run a long ground '00' from the battery to the motor.) Running the battery ground to the frame, although short run and cheaper it can effect your electrical system, especially if you are running EFI or an MSD
type box.

Carrera shocks have three settings, a stepped tooth design on the housing, we set this tooth to the middle setting.

As Curt C says 250 rates on the rears seem to work ok, but I need to know what weight you are pushing around the track on the front.
Is the front end 'plowing' in the turns or is the rear end too loose?

If you get all this done you may find out that you need a removable front spoiler/air dam to keep the front end down on the straights, as the car will want to go nose light once you get in the 130 mph range or higher. The front air dam should go corner to corner on the car and be no more than 1" off the ground.

A little -fun- type work, another small investment, a little driving time and it will be a long time before anyone in your class passes you on the track!
Keep me posted!
DV

Second time I've tried to edit: Went back and saw what engine you are using-excellent choice! Steering? Manual or power? What rack?

Last edited by Double Venom; 03-27-2008 at 07:21 AM.. Reason: Additional questions
Reply With Quote