Quote:
Originally Posted by blykins
Hold up....
I think something else is amiss.
That balancer is used for all SBF's....with a SBF, you can have the pointer in 3 different spots...10:00, 11:00, and 2:00.
I just used that exact balancer on a 445W build up and didn't have any problems.
Here's what I would advise:
Do you have a degree wheel? I would find true TDC with a degree wheel and a piston stop. Then you'll know exactly where TDC is and you can put your pointer in the right spot. Something else is up....and you need to verify that your TDC is correct and then you can put your pointer in the right spot. I bought an adjustable pointer, that way I could put it anywhere in the 10-11:00 positions.
Also, another tip for quick starting.....when you verify TDC and get your pointer lined out, put your pointer at about 20 degrees BTDC (make sure #1 is on compression stroke). Then stab your distributor in and point the rotor at the #1 plug wire.
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I had a builder do a semi-long block for me. They installed the pistons, crank, cam, timing set, and heads. I asked them to degree the cam (I don't have a degree wheel but read about degreeing a cam). I did the rest:
oil pump/pan, timing cover, water pump, intake, etc.. I put the crank damper on last year as tight as I could without having the flywheel on. I'm pretty sure I did it correctly. I had a few books to reference. I found TDC for No. 1 cylinder, installed the timing pointer at the 10 o'clock position and lined up the '0' on the damper with it. I just got the flywheel on this past weekend and torqued the damper down. That's how I lost the timing mark under the pointer. I still don't understand why the damper doesn't have a scale to the left of the '0' mark. When I go to do the idle timing where is 10 or 12 BTDC on the damper??? That's why I was thinking of running timing tape to the left of TDC. I'm still weeks away from starting up the car.. I'm working on the engine and car at the same time.. I guess it's cheap insurance to double check TDC. Do the spark plug entry piston stops work well? I guess they are less accurately when compared with the head being off and the stop at the top? I definitely don't feel like taking the intake and heads off..
Do I have to take the damper off to use the degree wheel?