Masnaka John what heads are on the motor Aluminium or iron. IMO you don't torque them to the same torque numbers. Ask KCR or Gessford Machine about this. For the heads you want to start in the middle and work your way to the outside bolts. 5-10 ft per adjustment until you reach spec. The same thing with the intake going side to side on each bolt until you are at spec. Start in the middle of the manifold. I don't go more than 5 ft of torque over the spec. I know you hate to hear this but, pulling the heads and checking everything, putting sealer on the head bolts or studs is the right way to do it. You might see a problem and catch it now then be on the road and do major damage to the motor. Hydro Lock or
oil in the coolant or the other way can be a big problem. Buy a pistol battery gun with adaptors for removing the bolts and nuts. They have electric guns to in 1/2" drive. The Battery one is easier to use. This saves alot of time and your arm. Harbor Freight tools sell them or Sears. They are good for a person that just does his own work. Try on line with Harbor freight. I use Loc-Tite on all my nuts and bolts on my motor unless it's in a coolant area, then I go to teflon sealer for these bolts. The reason I add 5 pounds to the torque reading is the drag on the nuts or bolts. If you feel the bolt or nut get wierd, you know the threads are stripping in that hole and will need to repair. Rick Lake Ps put a couple of cold ones in the fridge with a steak, you get this after the job is done.
