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Old 06-15-2008, 04:56 AM
RICK LAKE RICK LAKE is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA,
Posts: 3,841
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Default Pat you are the old brother I always wanted.

pactrickt Hi Pat. I didnot know I was to answer the U Joint question. Any way here goes. My Jeeps used the same joints as the Cobra drive shaft. I would get about 5-7,000 miles per front shaft and 3-5,000 per rear one. I have tryed all but the latest ones now released. They are from the 4wheel drive world. They are solid with no bearings. They are greasable. The caps have bronze sleeves in the cups and they need grease every 1K mile. If I was racing the cobra in 1/4, I would add them to the drive shaft and whole rearend. If really serious about drag racing a solid axle 9" would be installed with 4 link. Back to subject IMO both U joints are manufactured at the same time. The only different is the final drilling of the grease fitting and rifle drilling of the joint. I grease the car 3 times a year with Amsoil red, water proof, and high temp. Since I have the tunnel off for trans and clutch changes and can get to the rearend inner joints, I hit them all at once, weather they need it or not. Solid or Hollow? Solid is stronger, but I don't like the fact of if anything like water gets in the joint, the joint is shot. The other way you can grease the joint and remove 98% of the water. If the drive train is setup correctly with matching angles for the drive shaft, I will stay with the hollow ones. I read somewhere they are about 20% weaker than solid. With 10 years of racing on mine and the rearend starting to leak from a stub shaft seal, I am thinking of changing them for safety reasons. Hope this helps, Yea Pat, HAPPY FATHERS DAY. No rain here, going to seen my dad. Later Your new pesty brother.Rick L Ps I am not changing my last name.

Last edited by RICK LAKE; 06-15-2008 at 08:42 AM..
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