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I agree on 180 t'stat and 50/50 mix of AF and H20.
---with a product called water wetter which helps heat exchange properties of coolant.
the other thing is to make sure your coolant system can hold 15PSI of pressure and has a 14PSI rad cap and is otherwise air tight.
coolant under pressure has a higher boiling point than open air/non sealed.
most traffic overheating can be traced to bad ignition timing and lack of proper vac advance.
if you remember the street 428s they had a vacuum valve on top of the coolant thermo neck that changed from 'ported (carb) vacuum to manifold vacuum being feed to the distributor at higher coolant temps. this would have the effect of increasing advance at idle/idle and not waiting until idle/part throttle.
--Steve
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Steve SPF 2734 MK3 / Brock Coupe #54- panavia.com
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