elmariachi Jim Don't do it. If you are going to race, build a new motor with BBC rods in an aftermarket block. If the motor is that good, it's worth 5 times what you paided for it. It's 40+ years old. While a don't agree with some of the PRO builders on either the FE Forum or here, metal fatige is real. Buy a stroker kit from Barry R if you want to stay with that block. The BBC bearing are wider, you are getting a better oiling for the crank and bearings. You can get custom .010" over pistons and drop your compression. If you are going to be on the street, buy a set of scat or Eagle rods and use them instead of the stock rods. They weight about 80 grams less. You can do every test possible but it doesn't show internal cracks in the parts, ONLY externals. Jim I have a 428 motor as a spare motor for my car. This motor is for street only no racing. Get a richmond super street trans if you are going to race. it's stronger than the TKO 600 and easier to install a
oil cooler and sprayer for the gears. It has the same gear ratio. If this is a speed race, 3.07 gearing in the rearend. IMO the 2.88 is weaker in carrier that a 3.07. Over build the car. Chromemoly stub shafts in the rearend, coolers for the motor, trans and rearend if this is a high speed long race. Air ducts for the brakes, front and rear. Limit your motor to 6,000 rpms. Accusump 3 quart as a per oiler of the motor and running high speed turns, pulling a 1/2 G or more. Dry Sump is not out of the question.
My next motor is getting this. Build a race car you can drive on the street, not a street car you want to go high speed running. The springs and shocks are way different between the two. On the street, 275 front springs, racing 400+ and QA1 shock with both adjustments for rebound and dampening. Even with ARP bolts in all the parts, limit the motor to 6,200 max. This will give it a longer life. No .003" on the rods and mains on clearances if you are racing. Pre Heat the motor before racing also,to warm up all the parts easy. Good luck Rick L.