Quote:
Originally Posted by vector1
hey don burning the midnight oil?
i would use your old timing set unless there is not enough adjustment to get your cam where you want it then opt for something with more adjustmet. the gear drive thing has kinda went by the wayside.
you should be able to do the cam/timing gear/valve train stuff. get a pushrod length checker and a couple soft springs to replace the valve springs and you can check your piston to valve clearance while you're at it. use some medium strength lock tight on the bolts and use a torque wrench and make sure the threads are clean and dry when you use it.
you should be able to borrow a degree wheel, pushrod length checker, and other assorted stuff from a local cobraite since you're going to use it only once.
take your time and follow the advice in the books and ask lots of questions, you'll be fine. |
Wow, I was not aware that I would have to remove any valve springs. I ordered the heads fully CNCed and assembled because I thought that doing the head assembly myself was out of my depth. I thought that removing or especially replacing dual valve springs was difficult without expensive special tools and a lot of knowledge. These springs are way stiff and I know I can buy a spring compressor fairly cheaply to remove them, but what about the
replacement of them. Isn't that a lot harder than the removal and take a way more effort, knowledge, and a special tool?
Do I have to remove and then replace them for each cylinder? I was under the impression (perhaps wrongly!) that you could obtain correct push rod length and also install/set the roller rockers
with the springs/heads fully assembled as they are. How do I put the springs back in properly, as the little tools I saw for 25-30 bucks to compress them for removal hardly look like they would work in reverse order to install them.
I have the degree wheel, a good torque wrench and adjustable lenth pushrod checker and was planing on getting a dial indicator and megnetic base and pointer for it . Then someone else said they thought I needed "a non hydraulic lifter the same length as my hydraulics to be installed" in order to set up the roller rockers rightly, Anyone know about that idea?
I will have to study this valve train stuff a lot more as it seems in many ways to be the most subtle and challenging aspect of the build.
Does anyone know about the "mid-lift" theory of setting valve/rocker geometry? It's the "only way to do it correctly" according to this racer/designer/engineer guy Jim Miller who nakes some really nice roller rockers I looked at. He says everybody else "has it all whrong and has been wrong for years"! Some of you might want to take a look at his ideas and stuff at
www.mid-lift.com and see what you think just for the fun of it. His arguments are pretty compelling about valve train geometry and rocker geometry and set-up.
Oh well! It seems it's like religion and politics. I think I'm feeling a bit over my head at this point. Just shoot me now!
Don