[Michael C Henry]

The flare set, if it's a good one, will be used some where else down the line, trust me. Brakes are always double flared. Keep the lines in protected areas away from heat sources. Make sure that when bending it doesn't colaspse or kink. Exscess lenght can be used in exagerated bends. Try to keep the ups and downs to a minimum . The master cylinder resivoir as the highest point in the system will make so many things so much easier. A down from the master cylinder and an up to the axle and then to the calipers or brake cylinders. You'll find gravity and time will help sort out a lot of the bleeding problems. Fill the master cylinder resivoir and pump fluid through the lines and bleed out air and some fluid out the brake cylinders untill no air bubbles are seen. Don't let the master cylinder go empty so you do not reintroduce more air. Let the system sit a while, any air in system accumulates at the higher points in the brake lines. If you watch the master cylinder resivoir any air at that end will come up through the fluid in the resivoir, When the pedal and piston is moved slightly. Make sure when you set up the pedal and master cylinder that you make sure the piston in the master cylinder is going all the way back it's rest to the internal snap-rin stop. The master cylinder is engineered to have the spring loaded piston rest against the snapring stop and reveal a passage from the presure bore to the resivoir. (If you adjust all the freplay out of the pedal and piston you may move the piston off it's engineered stop ,closing off the passage. As the brakes wear or any fluid is lost the master cylinder will start loosing it's effectiveness. The pedal will start getting lower and lower. When the pedal is adjusted properly,master cylinder piston will rest against it's internal snapring a verry small amount of travel of the pedal off it's rest the will start moving the master cylinder piston. You'll notice a slight movement of fluid in the master cylinder resivoir fluid, that is the passage between the piston bore ahead of the piston seals and the resivoir being sealed off and brake actuating fluid is being pessurized. If you have adjusted the pedal linkage properly if you say, change just the mastercylinder, you can work any air introduced into system out the resivoir just by moving the pedal and piston slightly back and forth. The air in that end of the system wiil come up through the fliud as bubbles to atmosphere. I have 3 Tilton master cylinders (2 for brakes front and rear brakes and another for the hydraulic clutch) with 2 remote resivoirs (one larger common resivoir for both brake systems and a maller resivoir for hydraulic clutch) . The pedals and master cylinders are mounted to the floor and the resivoirs are mounted up on the firewall where the fluid levels can be maintained. Real easy to bleed when I change master cyinders or reseal the calipers.