Quote:
Originally Posted by hi-tech cobra
Undy,
Don't I know you from somewhere? 
How thick should the RTV be on the intake side?
lineslinger,
What do you think of the RTV from Jeg's (link in my first post)? |
Yep, I too have some sort of faint recollection..
Measure both gaps at the China walls with a feeler gauge after you set the intake down on your glued down intake gaskets. Mine was right at 0.100". I put about a 1/4" high bead down on both ends. Be careful not to put too much RTV at the ends of the China walls as you might restrict both heads'
oil returns.
Make sure you check your angles and clearances where the intake contacts the heads, top and bottom, before you bolt anything down. Again, use use a feeler gauge to check. You'll be looking for the top of the gasket and the bottom of the gasket to have the same clearance. That will ensure uniform intake gasket compression and a "non-
oil sucking" intake gasket seal.
Also, I don't like ARP's or anyone else's intake manifold bolt kits. The bolts end up being too short for the aluminum heads (good length for iron heads though), leading to a high potential for stripped holes when torqued to specs. I made a 304 tempered stainless intake stud set for mine. I set the manifold and run the studs down to the bottom of the holes. I slotted the top of the studs so I can install/remove studs with a screw driver. I've never stripped a hole or sucked
oil past the gaskets with this setup. The 3' length of stainless all thead ran me 12 bucks and a half hour of fabrication time, well worth the investment.
Even BarryR liked my idea on the studs
..
Dave