[Jack21]

Couple of things to look for. Have CR, not Lonestar, but electrics on these should be fairly similar.

Your headlight switch has a parking light out terminal, and headlight out terminal. The parking lights should be hot in park, and hot in headlights. If the parking light out goes dead when you switch the headlights on, the switch is bad. Either replace the switch, or make yourself a little jumper from the headlight out, back to the park out with a 3 amp rectifier (diode) from Radio Shack for about a buck.

If you're using Lucas round Healy style lights, here are a few tips.
The black ground wire is only crimped in place. When it corrodes, and it will, no ground. Unroll the crimp strap, drill a hole in it big enough for an 8-32 brass screw, solder a terminal onto the ground wire, and install it onto the light with the screw. Then put a thin coating of wheel bearing grease on it and reinstall. Put small amount of grease on little brass tits that hold the lens in place. Prevents dissimilar metals corrosion between brass and steel, or you'll be replacing rusty lights every couple of years.

Another tip. Redundant grounds. Wire all your frame grounds additionally back to a central connecting point like a brass strap, then connect directly to battery ground lead. Starter solenoid frame is a good place to do this. I put a brass strap on the inside and outside of the firewall. Ron Francis Wireworks has them or you can make one. It's a lot easier to do this while you're wiring everything, than trying to diagnose them when they corrode later.