Neutral
Do you have a couple more pictures from different angles
shelby racer. Sorry for the problems you have with the car. Do you have any more pictures of the setup? I can answer the question about the rotor being bolted to the hub, If you loose a wheel at high speed the rotor will hold up the car as you come to a stop. If the rotor is not bolted to the hub you could loose the whole brake system if the rotor snaps off and takes the caliper with it . If you go to a good machine shop, have 4 bolts install the other way like Japanese cars. They are #3 philips screws. They also keep the assembly from spinning out of balance. If the rotor is a loose fix, you can get either a vibration in the car in your seat or in the steering. Have had this happen with welded wieghts falling off rotors. My other concern is that you have worn out a bearing assembly in 400 miles?? Something is not right here. If your mechanic said that there is play on one side and not the other, unless you potholed the car, the assembly was not setup as to their spec. What would fix some of the problem is going to a truck 4 wheel drive hub and changing the pins to the hub and not the wheel. As far as machining rotors that are a complete unit, there are ACCUTURN brake machines that do the resurfacing right on the car. The 1 ton truck have this. The machine centers on the rotor for a true cut to stop any pulsation on the brakes. The machine can't correct for bent or worn out hub bearings. Could we see a couple more pictures of the splindle setup? Show a shot with the caliper off looking at the back of the rotor attached to the hub please. Thanks Rick L.
|