[shelby racer]

Originally Posted by Three Peaks

Okay, so now what is the verdict? I haven't read every post in this thread, but almost all of them but I thought I read the rotor DIDN'T have to be pressed off, is that right?

If so, just replacing bolts with better bolts/nuts and torquing to spec should take care of the major problem at this point or is there something else I'm missing?

Are the uprights machined out of Stainless or are they hard aluminum? If they are stainless, I would stay away from Stainless fasteners as they will gall and possibly damage the part next time they have to be removed. Go with a grade 8.9 Metric bolt, possibly in black oxide coating and a good hardened washer. In this particular case, I wouldn't use nylock nuts, rather I would use the Metal crimped locking nuts as I've seen the nylock lose some of their grip on the bolt over time with heat, abuse, etc damageing them.

Bob

Okay, I took the other (driver's side) down to my mechanic. It did NOT have to be pressed off. All of the bolts were loose, but not as bad as the passenger side so the billet aluminum upright was not as scarred. We chased all the threads in the steel ball joint mount and installed new metric 12.9 black oxide fasteners with loctite and hardened washers after dressing all the applicable surfaces. At this point my mechanic feels that it should be sufficient for now (although we are investigating customs rotors and hats for when I need to do a brake job and turn the rotors in the future so that I will not have to pull the suspension apart again. With any luck, I will be back on the road later this week or by the week end.

John(;-)