That is a good place to hook a watts as it replaces the original radius arm but doesn't swing a radius on a mushy rubber bushing like the stock set up. I have seen several different ways of stopping that lower arm flex including gusseting the inner and outer of the stock dog bone, adding a radius rod across the back of the dog bone, tubular x braced lower arms and also billet lower arms. It's pretty much a case of getting what you pay for. Interesting that the stock set up controls the movement at the bottom with a radius rod where all the aftermarket upgrades are trying to control movement at the top of the hub?? A watts linkage works on a pivoting centre link on the hub or axle tied forward and rearwards (or side to side when replacing a panhard rod) to the chassis. This allows the suspension to move up and down in a straight line while the centre link pivots. The trick is to have it do this without it binding or breaking anything. I'll try and post a pic of it but don't hold your breath, I'm a car guy not a computer nerd.........
