Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobcat
You mentioned engine rpm dropping under hard braking ... you might try running a rubber line from the front vent to the rear vent of the carb(s) , but drill about 6 to 8 holes in the top of the line at the high point .
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LOL...I was thinking of doing exactly that, although with my luck lately, the rubber hose will come off and dissapear inside the manifold.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobcat
Interesting what you said about 38 degrees giving you the best idle as my engine builder just dynoed a 482 with tunnel port heads and had the distributor locked at 37 degrees . He made over 700 hp and said he had a smooth idle at 700 rpm .... which surprised him .
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If I were to lock the dist at 38, I'd be darned sure to get the rpms up over 3000 before I loaded the engine by letting out the clutch. But it sure idles nice there. I've never ahd cranking troubles, even with very advanced timing, but with a locked dist, one might have to have a seperate ignition switch and turn on the igntion after the enigne is already cranking.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobcat
Have fun .
Bob
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Thanks Bob, I am. Building the car was the most fun, driving it is OK, but tinkering and tuning is better (although sometimes frustrating....LOL). The satisfaction from success is darn worth having a beer over !
