[lal Naja]

Now that the Epoxy is set and the position of the pins to furrel is correct, remove the top and take off the shaft collars, you won't need the collars again. Careful not to crack the epoxy patches on the pins.

Place the top back onto the car. Don't forget to check front fit and use the Alligator clamps on the windshield. Now it's time to fit the fiberglass pin/latch shrouds to the top. The shrouds as supplied with much depth & height surplus that needs to be trimmed. I should have made my shrouds 1/2" to 3/4" shorter in height, use your judgment for yours. The depth for fitting the shrouds is critical so place them in position and push with your thumb to try to make contact with the pin plate. You will find that at-least 1/4" to 3/8" will need to be trimmed off the back of the shroud. Use a suitable marker/pen/pencil and scribe a mark on the shroud to conform to the top. Sand this surplus off using a disk or belt sander. Try/scribe again and again till the shroud fits against the top and there is no gap between it and the pin plate. Gap between body & bottom of shroud on mine is about 3/16". Accurately transfer the holes from the pin plate to the shroud and screw the shroud to the pin plate with two 10x 32 screws. Repeat this process to fit the shroud to the other side. Then glass shroud to the top using 1 1/2" wide strips of glass cloth around the perimeter. Apply three layers around the perimeter and than two full pieces of glass cloth over the entire shroud. Don't glass in the two 10 x 32 screws. When I was done glassing in the perimeter I removed the 10 x 32 screws and placed 1" long 10 x 32 studs into the plates. These studs were ground to a point so that the next two layers of glass cloth would punch over them. Wax the studs so you can remove them when done glassing and as soon as resin sets up. Let the fiberglass setup for 24 hours.

Sand your glass work flat in the area of the mating latch plate and smooth sand the rest of the glass work depending on what you plan with your trim/head liner. Attach the latches to the pin plate/shroud and install the corresponding latch hooks to the body. Mark hooks on body and drill holes 1/16" lower that marked to provide the tension. Install nut-serts and complete the latch installation. If all prior care was taken in doing the fitting and measuring the result will be perfect and latch will clear body bull nose. If not you are in trouble!!

Now install the front latches to the windshield sides/straps. I did not use the Butler latches here, I used locking adjustable latches. Two reasons: Locking safety and ease of installation the tension adjustment provides. It's a no-brainer.

I'm thinking of installing a third brake light to the hardtop in the area above the back window. I may glass in copper foil tape between the light and the latch pins for the 12 volt supply. Will have to make spring loaded contacts in furrels to transfer power to the latch pins. This way all you have to do is drop the top onto the car and brake lights will be connected. Seamess and hidden.

But now I'm working on the sliding windows. Have made a mock-up and am now reviewing how to adjust/resolve/seal the misfit between the sculpted form of the top of the doors and the straight flat bottom of new sliding windows.

More to come if anyone is interested.