Are you sure you had your starter correctly adjusted to fit your flywheel?
I almost ruined mine. Fortunately I noticed it on time and now the starting process is real quiet. I posted this experience in Tilton Starter Blues:
Quote:
Since I had my new Pond sideoiler block my starter has been doing strange noises. Some days ago the starter would turn but not move the flyingwheel and it took me some pushing to get the pinion engaged to the flywheel and start the car.
I removed the starter and the pinion was badly chewed up. Some teeth on the flywheel did not look very healthy but all have enough depth left.
With the new block and the correct aligning of the gearbox shaft apparently the starter location has moved away from the engine shaft. I fixed it with a new pinion and bringing the starter closer to the flywheel. It works perfectly and very quiet now.
Since I had the old flywheel I reproduced on the bench the starter/flywheel setup and calculated that a 0.015 end play pinion/flywheel is 0.050 radial play on the large sliding gear which engages with the starter motor pinion.
I removed the starter flange and the drive unit from the starter, mounted them on the engine with the pinion in the extended position and checked how much a 0.015 play between the pinion and the ring gear would be of radial play on the large sliding gear of the starter. It resulted in a 0.050 radial play.
In order to achieve the correct end play I had to mount the starter flange on the lathe eccentrically ( a 3 mm thick aluminum plate under one of the chuck arms) in order to remove more aluminum off the collar on the side facing the block .
Additional to that I had to elongate the three mount holes enough to get the starter moved towards the block and eventually I got the desired 0.05 radial play. I also adjusted the distance in retracted mode between flywheel/starter by turning down the flange on the face where it meets the bellhousing cover.That one was too large also.
Now the gears engage fully and I can hardly hear any noise when starting.
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