Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunner
Noted, thanks. I'm not dead set on the Mocal but the Canton just has the wrong look for a '66 underhood. If I was that much into into billet and anodizing I'd have a new Bullitt instead. 
I will probably experiment with bypassing the cooler first. I would just take it out and see if my oil temps ever got to something worryable, but for originality I'd rather keep the cooler in place and discreetly plumb in a valve or thermostat. If I do it just to dingle with things, It's all easily reversible and I'm only out a couple of hundred in fiddling money.
And I don't know what my problem with AN lines is. I've followed every rule and read every trick, and I just can't get the sononvaguns to go together right. I'll try some of the trick tools this time.
As for hose geometry, my eyeball assessment says I can do it with the right angled fittings. I wouldn't try to do it with straight hose ends and bending. |
Gunner,
Makes sense. If you do use a thermostat (either Mocal or Canton), consider mounting it down low behind the radiator. It will not be very conspicuous there.
On you problems with the AN lines, suggest you get a set of Kool Tools assembly aides and a hose cutter. These two tools helped my results a lot and sped things up considerably.
Just a suggestion if you decide to try bypassing your cooler - you'll need to do this inside the engine bay with a new line. I tired simply blocking my cooler with some cardboard before installing my thermostat and it did not make much difference. I think this was due to all of the side and line cooling surfaces on the cooler which were still exposed to cold air.
- Fred