B2 Motorsports - Mat Twiehaus 427SBF Build

[blykins]

I'm going to try something new with my Club Cobra participation. I thought it would be cool for my Club Cobra customers to get some personal thread exposure about the engine that they're getting. Not only does the customer get their build up in lights, but it gives everyone else a recipe for a desired engine output.

We'll use Mat as a guinea pig. (I did get his permission...)

So my plan is to outline the build, post pictures as the build progresses, and then post the dyno results at the end.

Mat came to me wanting a new engine for his JBL Daytona Coupe. This is primarily going to play the street car role, but Mat wanted it to be reliable and potent enough to test the abilities of the chassis.

Ok, enough for my banter...here's the rough specs:

*Dart SHP 351W Block, 4.125" Bore
*Scat 4340 4.000" Crankshaft
*Scat 6.250" H-Beam Rods
*Probe SRS Forged Pistons, 25cc Dish, 1/16, 1/16, 3mm Ring Pack
*Ported Trick Flow 225cc High Port Cylinder Heads
*Ported Edelbrock Victor Jr Intake
*Comp Cams Solid Cam, 244/252 @ .050", 110/105, .600/.610"
*Comp Cams Ultra Gold Rockers
*Quick Fuel Q-850 Carb
*MSD Pro-Billet Distributor

I really try to get away from cookie-cutter builds and although 427W's are getting fairly common these days, this one will definitely hold its own.

Instead of the traditional Canton/Moroso oil pan with Melling oil pump, we're going with a Dailey Engineering billet dry sump pan and pump system. The pump feed hole in the block gets drilled and tapped for a plug, and the oil is fed into the block externally through a multi-stage pan-mounted dry sump pump. Adding to the dry sump experience is a Peterson Fluid Systems pump mandrel, along with one of their valve cover mounted pop-off valves, and one of their valve cover mounted vacuum regulators. This particular pump is a wet/vac pump and will actually pull vacuum through the crankcase.

I plan to take some pictures of the heads and block this evening and I will post them here. I actually have everything for the build, but we're waiting on Peterson to supply the mandrel so we can get some critical dimensions to Dailey so they can build the pump.

I will also post the flow numbers for the heads and intake.

Stay tuned.....

[ERA Chas]

Great idea! Let us know what the compression computes out to.
I expect no less than 600HP.

[blykins]

It should be right around 10.4-10.5:1.

[Clois Harlan]

So Mat's going to have 1000 hp now and he will really kick my A$$ on the track.

Thanks a lot Brent!

[vector1]

brent, if you haven't ordered the pan/pump setup see if they will quote you a better price for two of the setups. mat was up here to look at my stuff and we discussed this. i talked to daley when they were designing the system and was under the impression it wouldn't fit, kind of iffy, but it would be tight.

[blykins]

Average flow on the intake manifold was 413 cfm....

Head flow is as follows:

.100 - 67
.200 - 144
.300 - 210
.400 - 264
.450 - 286
.500 - 301
.550 - 310
.600 - 319
.650 - 325
.700 - 330
.750 - 334

Exhaust

.400 - 186
.450 - 196
.500 - 204
.550 - 209
.600 - 214
.650 - 216
.700 - 219

[blykins]

[ERA Chas]

Are the valves 2.08 x 1.60 in the TF's? Intake side is good-exhaust
can use another 15 cfm or so. Don't think they'll support 600HP but 550-580 no problem.
Another meticulous build by you.

[blykins]

It will be over 550.

Intake valve is 2.08, exhaust is 1.6.

Exhaust flow was without a pipe....

With the 2" pipe, the exhaust flowed 230 @ .600 and 247 @ .750.

Ye of little faith...

[FUNFER2]

Brent- I really like this build and appreciate all the coming information and photo's. This will make for a great engine. Two question though.

With the 600 or so HP and mainly a driver, why go to the extent of having a dry sump ?

Also, how do you like the Comp gold rockers and will they be pedestal mounted or shaft's ?

[blykins]

The dry sump is for road racing purposes. The chassis that Mat is messing with has the ability to pull some pretty substantial G's if Mat doesn't fill his shorts first. Keeping the bearings lubed is paramount in situations like that and a dry sump will scavenge from various parts of the oil pan....which ever part has oil in it, that's where it will get it.

I use Comp rockers on a lot of high horsepower stuff. These are stud mount. If this was a 7000 rpm engine, I would think about shaft rockers or at least a stud girdle. However, it should peak way shy of that.

[rpatton3]

This should be a favorite thread!

Russell

[Mstusc]

I'm new here, but I want to buy something loud and expensive Brent has built. Very cool to share the build process, you are a great resource of info!

[Clois Harlan]

He is a great engine builder too, plus an all around good guy.

Clois

[951mat]

Thanks for starting this thread Brent. I cant wait to see assembly. You'll have the timing cover thursday.
Hey Mark, I talked to Dailey and Id bet there's no room for price negotiation. He does have a different modular system he's developing for Windsors. Might be a good application and slightly less $$$.
Kevin, I'm understand the question on the dry sump. I think it's great no one here questions the 550-600 hp. just shows how twisted we are here on CC.
It may be a little overkill for me, but if I ever turn a hot shoe loose in it showing me how to drive it, I'll be glad I got it. And wait till u see it. It is actually art work.
Mat

[blykins]

I ran out of valve seals, but I got some more coming tomorrow. I should be able to have the heads assembled by tomorrow evening around this time. I'll post more pics.

I'm actually further ahead in the game than what it appears. The cam has been degreed, piston/valve clearances checked, rod/main bearing clearances checked, cam/crank thrust clearance checked, piston rings are filed, and all the rod bolts have been cycled and checked to make sure they'll pull .005" stretch at ~62-63 lb-ft.

Mat, if you ever decide to make this thing a full-time race car, we can change a few build parameters and you can be there. It's so hard trying to balance an engine between something that will perform on the street and perform on the track as well...all while trying to stay within a specified budget.

I love my job.

[vector1]

looking at the photo, and imo, the oil inlet will not work. there is 1.4" clearance between the frame and an fitting, which in this picture is crimped and uses a lot less room than the threaded an fittings if that is what you are using, this fitting is -12 btw. a 90deg. -12 an fitting is about 2" deep and will not be able to be started on that fitting. you might get it on prior to engine installation but if ever removed the engine will have to be moved, and installing with fitting on will be a hassle also imo, everything is tight.

a straight -12 thread can be used for the block if i remember right with a soft aluminum or other type gasket between the block and flats. plug the normal oil scavenge port in the block.

if the frame has been redesigned in this area disregard, but i don't believe it has.

[vector1]

thanks mat, he was pretty solid on his pricing when i talked to him. that thing will be a rocket ship!

[FUNFER2]

Originally Posted by 951mat

Thanks for starting this thread Brent. I cant wait to see assembly. You'll have the timing cover thursday.
Hey Mark, I talked to Daily and Id bet there's no room for price negotiation. He does have a different modular system he's developing for Windsors. Might be a good application and slightly less $$$.
Kevin, I'm understand the question on the dry sump. I think it's great no one here questions the 550-600 hp. just shows how twisted we are here on CC.
It may be a little overkill for me, but if I ever turn a hot shoe loose in it showing me how to drive it, I'll be glad I got it. And wait till u see it. It is actually art work.
Mat

I like dry sumps, as we race 360/410 winged sprint cars. There's been a few guys years ago, that just ran a wet sump, and surprisingly,.....never had any issues with oil starvation and g-forces. I personally would never go there ! lol

I'm building a mechanical roller side oiler with somewhere between 600/700 HP/TQ, mainly for the street, and although a dry sump would be cool, I just won't need it, plus more cost in parts and maintenance. If I road raced it, even just a hand full of times each year, that would be a different story.

[olddog]

Thanks Brent & Mat. This is 10 times better than any magazine article. For one it will be honest.

Cam spec question:
*Comp Cams Solid Cam, 244/252 @ .050", 110/105, .600/.610"

I know Brent is not a fan of flat tappets, but solid rollers would not fit my picture of a reliable street engine. This a solid roller or solid flat tappet?