B2 Motorsports - Gary Bowman 445 SBF Build

[lovehamr]

Originally Posted by blykins

Callies crank...

Sweet! But I gotta ask man; $$?

Steve

[blykins]

$1160 for the crank, $1240 for the rods.

[GBowman]

Well Brent...doesn't take much to see that you are either a work-a-holic or have a little one at home, or BOTH!!! Get some sleep

[blykins]

Usually hop out of bed at 4:30-4:45. The baby had a doctor visit yesterday and got several shots, so she was up a lot last night. So were we.

[GBowman]

Well 6 AM aint bad, my computer was on the fritz-it said 3:57 AM when you posted, now it says 5:57 which is normal-sieze the day!!!

[blykins]

Well, the details will not flow as freely from here on out.

I was speaking with the editor of Modified Mustangs & Fords today and he was interested in Gary's motor as a feature story.

Unfortunately, when the magazine covers a story, the pictures and details essentially become their property, so I won't have as much liberty to speak about the engine. I understand where they're coming from....it's hard to sell magazines if people have already seen the stories.

I will post as much as I can here...

[Jerry Clayton]

Brent----thats good as it will reach thousands more people than just here at CC!!!!!!!!!!!!
Guess I'll have to get another copy and someday when our paths cross get you to sign them--------

I'm just starting a rebuild on an all original 351boss "stang-----------going to be a touch different trying to keep as origninal as possible----minium over/undersize on everything, keeping all the original parts for the owner for "down the road"

[GBowman]

Talk about a change in plans...well more to come BUT, I think I have the right team in order to get this done. Jay at Vintage and Blykins-cant ask for a better team. Not sure what Im allowed to say about the engine but it has my heart pumping already. Now I need Jay to work some MOJO and help us put something together...this will not be a cookie cutter thats for sure.

[blykins]

Well, I can't post any pictures, but I can give a situation report....hahaha

The build has been upgraded to a dry sump build, along with some other goodies. I ordered Gary's Aviaid oil pan and went with Jones Racing to supply the pump, brackets, mandrels, etc.

I spent about 2.5 hours today cycling the fasteners on the Oliver rods, measuring the stretch, and then checking rod bearing clearances.

If you think that engine builders charge too much, I'll remind you of how long it takes to just set the rod bolts...hahaha These rods give a torque angle spec as well as a stretch spec. Basically you get the rods, remove the fasteners, clean everything, then lube the fasteners up really good. The bolts torque at 30 lb-ft plus 44 degrees, then you check the stretch, which is supposed to be around .0053-.0055". Before you do that though, each fastener has to be cycled 2-3 times, which includes lubing them up, setting the torque, loosening them, lubing them again, setting the torque, loosening them, lubing them up, then setting the torque again. Eight times. My $450 digital torque wrench makes this a breeze... (I will also admit to enjoying the beep and the vibration when I achieve spec....hahaha)

Gary's came in right in spec with most being .0055" stretch, after adding about 2° more angle to the torque spec.

All of the journals on the Callies crank were within .0002" of each other.

I don't want to ruin the magazine article, but the valve covers for this engine are super sweet....I had some wrinkle finish black valve covers CNC'd with my logo and the displacement of the engine. They look awesome.

[GBowman]

That sounded like motor porn...just sayin'

[scottj]

Originally Posted by blykins

Well, I can't post any pictures, but I can give a situation report....hahaha

The build has been upgraded to a dry sump build, along with some other goodies. I ordered Gary's Aviaid oil pan and went with Jones Racing to supply the pump, brackets, mandrels, etc.

I spent about 2.5 hours today cycling the fasteners on the Oliver rods, measuring the stretch, and then checking rod bearing clearances.

If you think that engine builders charge too much, I'll remind you of how long it takes to just set the rod bolts...hahaha These rods give a torque angle spec as well as a stretch spec. Basically you get the rods, remove the fasteners, clean everything, then lube the fasteners up really good. The bolts torque at 30 lb-ft plus 44 degrees, then you check the stretch, which is supposed to be around .0053-.0055". Before you do that though, each fastener has to be cycled 2-3 times, which includes lubing them up, setting the torque, loosening them, lubing them again, setting the torque, loosening them, lubing them up, then setting the torque again. Eight times. My $450 digital torque wrench makes this a breeze... (I will also admit to enjoying the beep and the vibration when I achieve spec....hahaha)

Gary's came in right in spec with most being .0055" stretch, after adding about 2° more angle to the torque spec.

All of the journals on the Callies crank were within .0002" of each other.

I don't want to ruin the magazine article, but the valve covers for this engine are super sweet....I had some wrinkle finish black valve covers CNC'd with my logo and the displacement of the engine. They look awesome.

Sounds like fun...

Which bolts are you using?

[blykins]

They are the Oliver A1 XTF bolts. 7/16"...

[Cashburn]

This thing is going to be a Hulk...

[GBowman]

YES in angry mode too

[blykins]

Got 'er dun.

Dyno day is the 31st, not sure when the magazine article will come out. However, here's the finished product.

[lippy]

Brent, why did you decide to go with a dry sump?

[blykins]

Originally Posted by lippy

Brent, why did you decide to go with a dry sump?

Well, a couple of reasons...

1. Hood clearance. The dry sump pans are generally around 3-4" tall, compared to 7-9" for a wet pan. This allows you to sit the engine down in the car further and allows for more intake manifold.

2. Performance. This engine will probably get beat on pretty hard, and with the cornering capabilities of Gary's new car, it is an insurance point.

3. Horsepower. With a dry sump pump, the scavenging part of the pump will pull a little vacuum on the crankcase. This allows me to use a piston ring pack geared more towards making power. There is also less windage because the oil is not stored in the pan.

4. Cookie-cutter-ness. This engine is very close to a race engine. Solid roller, belt drive, stud girdle, fully ported heads/intake (the heads flow over 350 cfm at max valve lift), etc. The dry sump adds to the overall "theme" of the engine.

[lippy]

Originally Posted by blykins

Well, a couple of reasons...

1. Hood clearance. The dry sump pans are generally around 3-4" tall, compared to 7-9" for a wet pan. This allows you to sit the engine down in the car further and allows for more intake manifold.

2. Performance. This engine will probably get beat on pretty hard, and with the cornering capabilities of Gary's new car, it is an insurance point.

3. Horsepower. With a dry sump pump, the scavenging part of the pump will pull a little vacuum on the crankcase. This allows me to use a piston ring pack geared more towards making power. There is also less windage because the oil is not stored in the pan.

4. Cookie-cutter-ness. This engine is very close to a race engine. Solid roller, belt drive, stud girdle, fully ported heads/intake (the heads flow over 350 cfm at max valve lift), etc. The dry sump adds to the overall "theme" of the engine.

Thanks Brent. Ballpark, what are the HP/torque gains and cost associated with an upgrade to dry sump?

[blykins]

It's expensive. The pans are not bad, but pumps are close to $800-900 by themselves. The crank mandrel, tank, lines, fittings, etc., will add another $1000 and with non-common engine platforms, getting all the accessories mounted and in line can be a pain in the booty. I bought a complete set up for Gary's engine from Jones Racing Products and even then, I had to send parts back/forth to be tweaked.

For horsepower, it just depends. It depends on how often you drive the car, what the purpose is for it, how hurting you are for hood clearance, etc. Thinner ring packs are not on par with a daily driver.

For you, I don't think it's worth the cost.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by lippy

Ballpark, what are the HP/torque gains and cost associated with an upgrade to dry sump?

I investigated a few years ago and would do it if I had to do it all over again. ALL the parts, high quality only, run about $3,000-$4,000 plus labor to install properly, which could double the cost at least around the SF Bay Area.

Of course, the hole to be made on the passenger side fender does cause me some concern, not only cutting a virgin aluminum body , but also the finished appearance too.