B2 Motorsports - Jeff Lipton 487 FE Build - Page 7

blykins · #**121** (**permalink**) 07-19-2013, 06:44 PM

Got a bit done....

Mocked up the heads and checked valve spring install heights. Measured spring pressures, got the game plan for the valvetrain. Adjusted install height is right at 2" and spring pressures are at 245/600. CC'd the heads, they came in at 93cc, dropped them off to have them milled. Taking 5cc's out.

Got the cam bearings installed and lifter bores honed. We put Timeserts in the heads for the rocker studs since the spring pressures are higher, and they blocked the feed hole in the heads, so I drilled and tapped the feed holes in the deck of the block for 5/16-18 set screws. I will block the oil there, and will oil the top end through the pushrods.

ERA Chas · #**122** (**permalink**) 07-19-2013, 06:48 PM

Forgive my ignorance Brent-the spring supplier is PAC? I'm not familiar with them. Who are they and where from?

blykins · #**123** (**permalink**) 07-19-2013, 06:57 PM

Home - PAC Racing Springs

PAC supplies a lot of springs to Comp and some other suppliers. High quality tool steel and pacaloy race springs.

blykins · #**124** (**permalink**) 07-20-2013, 03:29 PM

Little further today....

Got main bearing clearances checked. Well, I'll rephrase that...I checked the rear main just to see where I'd be. It was tighter than where I wanna be with a hotter (higher performance) aluminum blocked FE, at .0017". Typically, I'm at .0018"-.0020" cold on the main bearing clearances. I want to be closer to .003" on a hot bearing clearance with this one, so I had to order a set of "X" bearings, so I could half/half them.

Rod bearing clearances came in where I wanted.

Piston to cylinder clearance was good, and deck clearance is right where I spec'd it to be.

Cam thrust plate that I have here would need about .010" to be taken OFF just in order to get cam thrust clearance, so I ordered another one of those as well.

After the cam is degreed, then it will be balance time.

This week will be a little crowded. I dyno'd another big inch Windsor yesterday, and I need to get the bell dialed and the clutch assembled so I can ship it out. Then I need to start assembly on David Wade's 501FE, which will also get its own magazine article, so I have to take a lot of "quality" pictures.

blykins · #**125** (**permalink**) 07-20-2013, 06:51 PM

blykins · #**126** (**permalink**) 07-27-2013, 03:43 PM

Cam is degreed, timing set, dowel, and pump eccentric all prepped and mocked up. Waiting for heads to be milled, then I can check P/V clearance...then it's balance time.

ERA Chas · #**127** (**permalink**) 07-27-2013, 04:18 PM

Brent, just curious-those valve reliefs in the pistons; do chamfer / lay-back those sharp edges? Can't tell in the photos.

blykins · #**128** (**permalink**) 07-27-2013, 04:30 PM

If they're sharp, I hit them with some emery cloth and break the edge. I haven't done anything yet to these, just in case I check the P/V clearance and they're so far jacked up that I have to send them back.

ERA Chas · #**129** (**permalink**) 07-27-2013, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blykins

If they're sharp, I hit them with some emery cloth and break the edge. I haven't done anything yet to these, just in case I check the P/V clearance and they're so far jacked up that I have to send them back.

Are the pistons in the hole '.010"?

blykins · #**130** (**permalink**) 07-27-2013, 05:17 PM

No....pretty much zero deck. Why?

ERA Chas · #**131** (**permalink**) 07-27-2013, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blykins

No....pretty much zero deck. Why?

I guess down '010" is 'old fashioned' these days. It's what I'm used to but those were warrantied crate motors. We did only a few custom builds and yours are all custom builds.

blykins · #**132** (**permalink**) 07-27-2013, 06:32 PM

I usually aim for a tight quench.

blykins · #**133** (**permalink**) 08-13-2013, 08:17 AM

Assembled Pond heads...

Got them finished up last night. Dropped a valve lock down an unplugged water hole between the springs and shook the head for a good 5 minutes to get it out. Too bad I didn't have any Polaroids, I could have multitasked.

Hope to get the rotating assembly to the balancer by Monday. Then stuff gets real.

blykins · #**134** (**permalink**) 09-07-2013, 12:59 PM

Alright, gave Jeff's block a final wash today and began assembly.

lippy · #**135** (**permalink**) 09-07-2013, 05:36 PM

Looks great! Can't wait to see the dyno results.

blykins · #**136** (**permalink**) 09-07-2013, 06:22 PM

Short block is done.

lippy · #**137** (**permalink**) 09-07-2013, 06:24 PM

You still waiting on any parts?

blykins · #**138** (**permalink**) 09-07-2013, 06:30 PM

Haven't ordered some of the drivetrain stuff yet, but I think all the engine stuff is here. Will have to have one valve cover flange on the intake cut down but that's about it.

undy · #**139** (**permalink**) 09-08-2013, 05:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blykins

Short block is done.

Brent, The picture doesn't show very well but it appears the Robert made some changes to his block since I got mine 5-6 years ago. My lifter bores all have thick-walled silicone bronze inserts (with beautiful cross-hatching). It appears that the block pictured just has raw aluminum lifter bores. Am I not seeing the block well??

I always liked the fact of the bronze walled lifter bores, seemed much better than "lesser" blocks with raw aluminum lifter bores.

blykins · #**140** (**permalink**) 09-08-2013, 05:49 AM

Well, this isn't a "lesser" block, but there are not any lifter bore bushings. I've went through a bunch of these and Robert has never sent them with bronze bushings.

Chances are, you got one that leaked water when pressure tested, and bushings were installed to seal it up.

On extreme applications with a tremendous amount of lift, or where the lifters are very tall, bushings can be installed to keep everything stable at max lift.