B2 Motorsports - Cliff Rosson All-Aluminum 331 SBF Build

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by ERA2076

Hold off a minute Brent, we want to study this a little more.

x

Oh Jeeze! Sorry Brenty, didn't want to start a dilemma. I made my comment figuring I was after the fact....don't hate me OK??
Cliff, by the extent of your front end mods and cool motor, I figured this was a 'no prisoners' car. You are basically making a JBL out of an ERA.
Consider my comments as a non-street car.
And no, don't put a kid or hostage atop a 220+ degree tank....

[Jac Mac]

Small dia ( ~6" dia )/Tall tank ( ~20" high) similar to sprintcar type should fit neatly in RF corner of passenger footwell & not bother pax feet too much. Poke top of tank out top of footwell to keep all but the lower feed to the pressure side of the pump in the engine bay will keep all the potential leaks out of the passenger compartment & all lines etc relatively short. Keeping engine at standard height allows a slightly deeper dry sump pan to help with crank clearance etc.

[951mat]

I bet you could carve out a nice spot for a decent size tank behind one of the rear wheels. Scott Johnson has pics of his yellow car I believe with the body off. foot well might be simpler, but lots of heat will be given off. That might not be a bid deal in the type of car you're building. I fit mine behind my left rear tire of my coupe, but I also want it to be a highway cruiser and not give someone the hot foot.

Mat

[ERA2076]

Chas - No JBL - I thought about it, but it's a little over my head. Not sure I would ever get it to work right.

Jac - Yea, we are looking at it - that could work. Maybe have a tank fabricated that fits in the front of the box - would lose 5".

Brent - Looking at Gary's - we are concerned with the packaging of the pump with the ERA chassis. Do you (or anyone else) know if this will fit with no interference with the lower control arm pivot point bracing? It is the box section attached to the passenger frame rail angling forward towards the front of the front cross member (forming a V) for the front of the engine to sit in?

x-chr

[ERA2076]

Brent - Wet sump it - Chas made the point

And no, don't put a kid or hostage atop a 220+ degree
tank....

My wife and mom might want to go for a ride- once.

[ERA Chas]

From Putnam:

If you mock in your pumps, you may get a better fit idea. Again, a call to Pete would reveal if there are any dry sump 427's (mostly same chassis) or FIA's that they've done.

[scottj]

A drysump pan alone never allowed me to lower the driveline as the flywheel was lower than the pan. I ran a 7-1/4" triple disc clutch and a reverse-mount starter when I had the driveline lowered. The only 7-1/4" clutch I would run on the street would be carbon and it runs about $6500. It's not pleasant to drive, but it stands up to the abuse of street driving much better.

[951mat]

Dailey engineering can give u detailed drawings to help figure it his will fit. His 302 modular design pump/pan is very compact. pump is on the drivers side too I believe. They're real pretty too. I love spending other people's money

Mat

[Rick Parker]

Get a Blow Up Doll for the passenger side.

[ERA2076]

Well there you go - problem solved.

[blykins]

Well, started checking main bearing clearances and I think that I won't have to mix bearings to get the clearance I want. Which is really nice.

What stinks is that Oliver said that they would be more than 4 weeks getting me a set of the 2.100" rods.

So to solve that problem, I ordered a set of their 2.000" rods and I'll have the crank cut down to the smaller journal. Much better scenario anyway and we won't have to wait 4+ weeks.

For all of you who think that building custom street/race engines is easy....I'm sticking my tongue out at you.

[Jac Mac]

Originally Posted by blykins

For all of you who think that building custom street/race engines is easy....I'm sticking my tongue out at you.

I have always struggled with that concept, apart from the fact that they all seemed to expect a race engine at street price. If you try to create a 'street spec' after building race engines you feel like your not doing the job properly..... better to treat them all as race engines and be happy about what you have done than give out a product that you have doubts about some of the components being used in the application. After all, a race motor usually gets looked after fairly well, regular oil changes, valve lash/fuel/ignition checks/good cold start procedures. Some 'street/track day' stuff gets neglected by comparison, cold starts, short runs, extended times on the checks above.
P.S..... 4 weeks!!!....try living half way round the globe, waiting 4 months for a set of custom pistons to arrive, then finding that they did not do the final pin fit to size & having to drive 200 mile round trip to find a shop with good gear to do that, stiil it got me out of the shop for a day

[lippy]

Originally Posted by blykins

For all of you who think that building custom street/race engines is easy....I'm sticking my tongue out at you.

Nothing is easy, especially this. If I thought it was easy, I'd do it myself.

[blykins]

Well, spent a good bit of time doing mock ups today. Started blending in the oil pump feed, checked distributor gear to block clearance, mocked up some galley plugs that sometimes get in the way, finished checking main clearances...







Then I ran into a snag....

The counterweights on the crank hit the block in quite a few places. The cylinders and sleeves are quite long in this block and it is just plain tight in the crankcase. And yes, just in case you were wondering, I tried another crank, a Scat 3.400" and it hit too...



So....

I'm sending the crank off, not only to have the rod journals cut down, but to have the counterweights cut down as well. It's just not feasible to grind that much on the block.

Got the piston to cylinder clearances checked as well, and also filed the rings today.

[Dimis]

Originally Posted by blykins

For all of you who think that building custom street/race engines is easy....I'm sticking my tongue out at you.

With my skill set building anything with Lego blocks ain't easy.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by Dimis

With my skill set building anything with Lego blocks ain't easy.

If you're building Lego's, then you're an MIT professor compared to me.

[dcdoug]

What does that do to engine balance?

[blykins]

Wasn't balanced yet, so it's a non issue there. I wait until everything is mocked up before I balance.

Cliff, it does reduce rotating mass, and depending on the bobweight, may require a little more heavy metal to internally balance.

[Jac Mac]

Dart alloy blocks Ive done require a bit of clearancing for lifter link bars, #4&5 cyls IIRC, will vary with style of lifter/link bar chosen. Clearance for timing chain on front face also if using early? sets.

[Rick Parker]

Anyone subscribe to the Roush Morse HYVO timing chain and its theory in lieu of Double roller chain. It is significantly more expensive but seems to have some merrit. They WERE used in a lot of Hi Performance V8's OEM applications but with nylon toothed Cam gears.