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Thanks - Ive been chasing it for 20 years. "Some times the window, some times the bug".
I've been the bug lot's :) chr |
Can't say that I'm nervous....
I've torn down a few engines that were running well for the sake of science.... :) My gut feeling tells me that this will be a change that will be well received. If it had been a street engine that saw nothing but trips to Dairy Queen and Rite Aid, then it would be fine. However, considering that it's going to be north of 6000 quite a bit, that little dip on the end of the hp curve doesn't give me warm and fuzzy feelings. My feelings are that we will gain horsepower and rpms alone, just by having better control of the valvetrain. Not to mention the fact that, relatively speaking, the duration is up a tad and the lift is up by almost .065". |
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No, not at all. Webers don't mind lift, they just hate overlap. Trust me, this would be a 500hp engine if we didn't have to hamstring it for those goofy velocity stacks....
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I wonder how long it will be before Cliff makes a coffee table out of the webers & bolts a 4bbl back on, probably just after he gets beaten by a 4bbl car!!:)
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Ok Cliff...
Ordered custom pushrods today, that was the last step. Heads are on and torqued, intake is on...distributor is in. Pretty much all we have to do is throw in the pushrods, run the valves, then dyno. I have the dyno scheduled for Friday, the 25th. Set the springs up a different way and used a titanium retainer. Got plenty of clearance with the T&D stuff now. Not sure what I'm going to do with your valve covers yet....they hit the T&D rocker stands in a BAD way. |
Could I have them modified to fit?
I had such glorious plans for those covers which included some reconfiguration to accept the old Ford breathers. What do we have for other options? Great call on the solid Brent - my bad for not sticking to it . Cannot wait to see the dyno. Really excited about building and running around this configuration. chr |
Brent-somebody makes 1" or so tall spacers for the valve covers. Maybe Moroso??
A buddy had them on a T&D / AFR-equipped Windsor. |
Not a matter of height....
There's a gusset and weld in each corner that support the tubes for the bolts. They hit on the outer rocker stands. I could try and see what it would take to get them to clear, but it may be where I would get into something and it would take more and more and more.... I have a set of regular Windsor valve covers here that fit just fine. Maybe time to upgrade to a nice set of valve covers with my logo on it? :) |
I have to have something simple which is why I asked about a small metal card with your info on it instead of your covers. Just find the simplest, lightest, covers you can.
My plan was to modify the alum ones to accept the old Ford breathers and then fix the old blue on silver COBRA stickers on them. There is a rod fab shop here in Portland. Maybe he can reconfigure the Cantons. Don't get bogged down on this - it is not a big deal. Your covers are to ornate for me. :) A discrete, metal stamped tag/card, fixed somewhere would be awesome B2 Motorsports City, State Date Displacement :cool: I have considered somehow attaching the tag to one of the covers, but the block works also. chr |
I don't even know where to get one of those plates made...
If you win a lot, just tell everyone that a little short, bald, ugly guy from KY built your engine. I got you a set of $70 plain polished aluminum valve covers. If you don't use them, send them back, I can powdercoat them and use them on something else. |
Valve Covers - Perfect -
Tag - You just need some aluminum sheet and a stamp set. Not to worry we will make one here. :) chr |
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Just curious Brent... Have you ever tried intake studs instead of bolts?
I was never satisfied with the "clamp" of FE intake bolts and they always seemed to need a recurring re-torque. I've also had problems with threads pulling too, more likely a factor of them being a bit too short. I did some research and found nobody made studs for that application. So I set out on a mission... I went down to my local fastener store and bought a 3' length of 3/8" x NC hi-grade stainless all-thread. I then measure the bolt hole depths with the intake on and cut the all-thread to the required lengths. I champhered each end of every stud and cut a screw driver slot on one end. I now set the intake on and drop the studs in, threading them all the way to the bottom of the hole. I now get great clamp and never pull a tread. I've checked stud/nut tightness multiple times since and they've never required a re-torque. It also provides me with multiple "bolt-down" points for accessories too. Just a thought, as it's worked very well for me. |
Never used them Dave. I could see how it would be useful in an FE since none of the bolt kits come with the correct length bolts, but small block stuff is usually spot on.
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Tried calling Cliff, couldn't get a hold of you.
Without a carb spacer we did 461 hp at 7000. With a 1" super sucker we made 474 at 7000. It wasn't done yet, but there wasn't any use in spinning it on up. Torque was 408 at 5500. Pretty good considering it's a very low overlap cam for Webers. Single pattern cam on a 112 LSA. You're leaving about 20-30 hp on the table by using that cam and not port matching the intake. Another 20-30 by running low compression... Will get with you next week about the details... |
I can't help but think that after a period of comfort with the car and this power, he's gonna want those additional numbers. And then get comfortable with that..
A throttle stop can always allow 'growing' into the power. I went through that and I think very many do. (Except Sheldon). And there's no trade-off. The motor won't be a hand grenade at 500HP... |
:D
That is even better than the last one and it would have worked great had it had enough mechanics. Damn - seriously shifting into rising torque and rising HP. Do you have any torque below 4000? Graph please - chr |
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