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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2013, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA2076 View Post
Hold off a minute Brent, we want to study this a little more.

x
Oh Jeeze! Sorry Brenty, didn't want to start a dilemma. I made my comment figuring I was after the fact....don't hate me OK??
Cliff, by the extent of your front end mods and cool motor, I figured this was a 'no prisoners' car. You are basically making a JBL out of an ERA.
Consider my comments as a non-street car.
And no, don't put a kid or hostage atop a 220+ degree tank....
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2013, 02:59 PM
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Small dia ( ~6" dia )/Tall tank ( ~20" high) similar to sprintcar type should fit neatly in RF corner of passenger footwell & not bother pax feet too much. Poke top of tank out top of footwell to keep all but the lower feed to the pressure side of the pump in the engine bay will keep all the potential leaks out of the passenger compartment & all lines etc relatively short. Keeping engine at standard height allows a slightly deeper dry sump pan to help with crank clearance etc.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2013, 03:43 PM
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I bet you could carve out a nice spot for a decent size tank behind one of the rear wheels. Scott Johnson has pics of his yellow car I believe with the body off. foot well might be simpler, but lots of heat will be given off. That might not be a bid deal in the type of car you're building. I fit mine behind my left rear tire of my coupe, but I also want it to be a highway cruiser and not give someone the hot foot.

Mat
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2013, 03:46 PM
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Chas - No JBL - I thought about it, but it's a little over my head. Not sure I would ever get it to work right.

Jac - Yea, we are looking at it - that could work. Maybe have a tank fabricated that fits in the front of the box - would lose 5".

Brent - Looking at Gary's - we are concerned with the packaging of the pump with the ERA chassis. Do you (or anyone else) know if this will fit with no interference with the lower control arm pivot point bracing? It is the box section attached to the passenger frame rail angling forward towards the front of the front cross member (forming a V) for the front of the engine to sit in?

x-chr
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2013, 03:48 PM
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Brent - Wet sump it - Chas made the point

Quote:
And no, don't put a kid or hostage atop a 220+ degree
tank....
My wife and mom might want to go for a ride- once.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2013, 03:55 PM
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From Putnam:

If you mock in your pumps, you may get a better fit idea. Again, a call to Pete would reveal if there are any dry sump 427's (mostly same chassis) or FIA's that they've done.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2013, 04:41 PM
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A drysump pan alone never allowed me to lower the driveline as the flywheel was lower than the pan. I ran a 7-1/4" triple disc clutch and a reverse-mount starter when I had the driveline lowered. The only 7-1/4" clutch I would run on the street would be carbon and it runs about $6500. It's not pleasant to drive, but it stands up to the abuse of street driving much better.
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Old 07-09-2013, 06:53 PM
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Dailey engineering can give u detailed drawings to help figure it his will fit. His 302 modular design pump/pan is very compact. pump is on the drivers side too I believe. They're real pretty too. I love spending other people's money

Mat
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2013, 06:58 PM
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I'll give you a few days. I don't have any experience with dry sumps and ERAs so I can't be of much help. However, we used a Dailey engineering setup on Mats 427 and it's very compact since the pump bolts directly to the pan.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2013, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
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His 302 modular design pump/pan is very compact. pump is on the drivers side too I believe.

Mat
So the filter will have to be remote mounted-yes?
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2013, 07:30 PM
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Aviaid is in the box

Last edited by ERA2076; 07-10-2013 at 01:24 AM.. Reason: Spelling
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2013, 08:23 PM
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Chas, my filter is remote mounted and my pump is on passenger side. I guess I figured they all had to be remote mounted, maybe not? You just have a single hose that has to go into the block from the pump. one hole in the block gets blocked off and the other some type of fitting to accept the large hose, -12 in my case. Not sure why Dailey put the 302 pump on the driver side, but it still looks cool. It has multiple locations on the pan also, so the pump doesn't have to stick very far forward of the engine either.

Mat
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2013, 09:26 PM
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Wow - beautiful stuff



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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 07-10-2013, 02:59 AM
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Going once.....going twice......
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 07-10-2013, 08:26 AM
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Wet -
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 07-10-2013, 08:29 AM
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Get a Blow Up Doll for the passenger side.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 07-10-2013, 12:23 PM
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Well there you go - problem solved.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 07-10-2013, 12:28 PM
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Well, started checking main bearing clearances and I think that I won't have to mix bearings to get the clearance I want. Which is really nice.

What stinks is that Oliver said that they would be more than 4 weeks getting me a set of the 2.100" rods.

So to solve that problem, I ordered a set of their 2.000" rods and I'll have the crank cut down to the smaller journal. Much better scenario anyway and we won't have to wait 4+ weeks.

For all of you who think that building custom street/race engines is easy....I'm sticking my tongue out at you.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 07-10-2013, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
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For all of you who think that building custom street/race engines is easy....I'm sticking my tongue out at you.
With my skill set building anything with Lego blocks ain't easy.
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Old 07-10-2013, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
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With my skill set building anything with Lego blocks ain't easy.
If you're building Lego's, then you're an MIT professor compared to me.
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