Sta-Bil Fuel Stabilizer - Page 2

patrickt · #21 (**permalink**) 10-13-2009, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RodKnock

I think your Winter prep is great. Meticulous in fact. I like the bag idea, even thought about it myself. However, I just think most gas and oil additives are a waste of money and only generate profits for the company, though I'll never be able to prove it.

Well I might get on board with you if that three dollar bottle went in with every fill-up, but this is a once-a-year treatment.

And you do know that StaBil is specifically recommended by name by over 70 engine and equipment manufacturers.

SPF2245 · #22 (**permalink**) 10-13-2009, 05:29 PM

I kinda look at Stabil as a $3 option over a couple hundred spent replacing filters, carb seals and the pain of guessing what is wrong when the car won't start in spring. Ofcourse, maybe it is snake oil...but in the past few years using it, I can't attribute any negatives for using it.

RodKnock · #23 (**permalink**) 10-13-2009, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Well I might get on board with you if that three dollar bottle went in with every fill-up, but this is a once-a-year treatment.

And you do know that StaBil is specifically recommended by name by over 70 engine and equipment manufacturers.

Why wouldn't they? They're all stockholders in Sta-Bil.

I'm sure all 70 companies have independently verified the Sta-Bil formula in their own laboratories. Reminds me of the "Non-fat Frozen Yogurt" episode of Seinfeld.

Argess · #24 (**permalink**) 10-13-2009, 05:37 PM

My response got cut short.....I have to admit, I was lazy about things like that, but after many years of not using it, I saw no reason to start. Especially after overhauling a boat carb to find it absolutely spotless. Two strokes are a different story, but I'm not sure wether the problem is from the oil mixed in the fuel, or from storing it for two winters. I've smelt rotten gas before, and it's much older than a year when it gets like that. If I was delibrately going to store my car for two winters, I'd throw some stabilizer in it. Probably would use some of that stuff for boats that you spray down the carb of a running engine until the engine chokes and dies. It coats the cylinder walls.

The only thing I make sure of, is to never store a car with the emergency brake on. Just leave it in 1st gear.

Trueoo7 · #25 (**permalink**) 10-13-2009, 08:46 PM

OK first off, I don't know where you're buying Sta-Bil for $3.00. Up here in the northeast it's more like $6.00-9.00 for 16oz. (but still well worth it) The only thing I would suggest is to make sure you buy the Marine Grade Sta-Bil treatment. (dark blackish color as opposed to the pinkish red) It is especially made for Ethanol treated gas, which we all pretty much have now and can be used in anything except diesel. I've used it for the last five years at home and work with no ill effects whatsoever. Easiest place to find it is at a marina or boat store all though I have seen it in automotive stores too.

209 · #26 (**permalink**) 10-13-2009, 09:47 PM

Winter? Boy, I hope to drive mine all through til spring!

Just put the top and curtains on and go.

I hope anyway.......... 209

209 · #27 (**permalink**) 10-13-2009, 09:55 PM

Hey Rodknock,
How about the one she smears his face on her breasts?

Can I say that? That episode will stay in my mind FOREVER!!

razerwire · #28 (**permalink**) 10-13-2009, 10:56 PM

Does anyone know if ok to use in fuel cell with blader, and if ok with fuel injection with all sensory equipment. I use in all small engines and generators and if I don't they will not start in spring without some cleaning. Also have rough running until old gas used or diluted.

67FEfastback · #29 (**permalink**) 10-13-2009, 11:41 PM

I use it every year in my boat. (2 containers, fill up the tank - less condensation)
I use another product called storage seal. I run it through the engine, after I shut off the fuel until the engine runs itself dry (coats the cylinders & internals with oily film)
Then pour just a little 2 stroke oil into the fuel injection dist. block.

Loosend the fan belts, change the fuel filter.

Boats tend to be a little more moist and stored outside. Plus the boat engine is 40K to replace and it's too big to paddle if it breaks down in the ocean. It's a minimal amount of work.
I've done it every year I owned it. Never har a break down due to fuel issues. Most boat engine failures are due to bad (old) gas or contaminated fuel.

If your car is garage kept and does not have fuel injection, maybe some of this is not necessary. Cheap insurance....

SPF2245 · #30 (**permalink**) 10-14-2009, 05:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trueoo7

OK first off, I don't know where you're buying Sta-Bil for $3.00. Up here in the northeast it's more like $6.00-9.00 for 16oz. (but still well worth it) The only thing I would suggest is to make sure you buy the Marine Grade Sta-Bil treatment. (dark blackish color as opposed to the pinkish red) It is especially made for Ethanol treated gas, which we all pretty much have now and can be used in anything except diesel. I've used it for the last five years at home and work with no ill effects whatsoever. Easiest place to find it is at a marina or boat store all though I have seen it in automotive stores too.

Go online and get the 32oz bottle for ~$13 and you can treat 4 cars...and you get the value

patrickt · #31 (**permalink**) 10-14-2009, 05:53 AM

Amazon's got the 8 oz. bottle for $4.99 -- our local big box crap store generally beats that price.

Argess · #32 (**permalink**) 10-14-2009, 06:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RodKnock

Taking before and after Winter pics of your rotors in conjunction with the rest of his Winter prep routine sounds very anal to me.

I look at mine.....3 times. Once in the Fall, again in the Spring before I drive it, and then again after the first drive. Odd how the 1st and last times, they look the same.....just that darn middle time.

If you ignore the boat related stuff, here's a decent checklist:

http://www.boatus.com/boattech/Casey/37.htm

A good tip from the link, is to leave the gastank full to reduce condensation and save the tank from corrosion.

By the way, if the mice want in, nothing will stop them. I've had them chew through one of those thick plastic tupperware containers to get to Christmas Chocolate Balls.....probably drawn by the rum content, but how they smelled through the tupperware.....

I do have mice in my garage once the weather gets cold. Quite disconcerting to be standing by the workbench tinkering with something and have a mouse run by, or be on your back under the car and one runs past your ear....LOL. But they havn't attacked the Cobra yet. No food to draw them to it I guess.

Try peanut butter on mouse traps. Sometimes they clean it up without the trap going off, but soemtimes they don't.

And I guarentee you, if you leave a bucket of antifreeze around, by spring you will have several drowned mice in the bottom.

WarrenG · #33 (**permalink**) 10-14-2009, 07:57 AM

I think it's easiest to just drive it once every two weeks. No need for the top. Even at 17F you just need to put a coat on! No problems with the mower, chipper, or tractor either. Just start them once in a while.

patrickt · #34 (**permalink**) 10-14-2009, 08:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Argess

I look at mine.....3 times. Once in the Fall, again in the Spring before I drive it, and then again after the first drive. Odd how the 1st and last times, they look the same.....just that darn middle time.

The real reason I took the time to actually photograph them before I put the car in the bag, and then compare them a good 5 months later when I pulled it out of the bag, was to see if the ads that say the desiccant "prevents all rust, blah, blah, blah" were true, partially true, or totally false. Rotors are a good benchmark because, when the weather is just right (meaning that rainy/drizzly/fog/temp-just-right weather) the rotors on my other cars will surface rust overnight to such a degree that it's almost hard to believe. You can even hear the rust coming off on the pads on the drive down the street.

Quote:

Originally Posted by WarrenG

I think it's easiest to just drive it once every two weeks. No need for the top. Even at 17F you just need to put a coat on!

Well, you get the blue-balls award for that. I question whether my car would even start in 17 degree weather. I question whether I would start in 17 degree weather. Plus, once we've had our first taste of snow or ice they put some sort of crap on the street that is just horrible and seems to stay there until the heavy Spring rains wash it all away.

WarrenG · #35 (**permalink**) 10-14-2009, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Well, you get the blue-balls award for that. I question whether my car would even start in 17 degree weather. I question whether I would start in 17 degree weather. Plus, once we've had our first taste of snow or ice they put some sort of crap on the street that is just horrible and seems to stay there until the heavy Spring rains wash it all away.

I don't know what they put on the roads here, but since I tend to take it out after the commuters have gone to work (or home) it seems like most of that stuff has been picked up by their cars.

I don't end up with too much to clean off after a run.

dcdoug · #36 (**permalink**) 10-14-2009, 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WarrenG

I think it's easiest to just drive it once every two weeks. No need for the top. Even at 17F you just need to put a coat on! No problems with the mower, chipper, or tractor either. Just start them once in a while.

I am generally with Warren, but then this is my first winter with the Cobra.....although I wouldn't drive it if the roads have been salted recently and no rain has come to wash it away. I was bike commuting (30mph for stretches) last winter and survived on 30 degree days, so it can't be much colder than that. I do have the FE to keep me warm after all.

Warren, you can drive down to my house and we can go on a popsicle cruise.

Here is another link on car winterizing: http://www.triple-c.com/Winter_Car_S...John_Twist.cfm

dcdoug · #37 (**permalink**) 10-14-2009, 08:49 AM

Anybody tried this stuff? http://www.amazon.com/Mouse-Away-Sol...sr=8-2-catcorr

Or mothballs or dryer anti-cling inserts

patrickt · #38 (**permalink**) 10-14-2009, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcdoug

Anybody tried this stuff? http://www.amazon.com/Mouse-Away-Sol...sr=8-2-catcorr

Or mothballs or dryer anti-cling inserts

Do not laugh, but if you simply ask somebody that has a cat if you could have their bag of old, used cat litter and then put some of it in an aluminum pie tin on your garage floor mice will stay away better than anything you can buy in a store.

dcdoug · #39 (**permalink**) 10-14-2009, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Do not laugh, but if you simply ask somebody that has a cat if you could have their bag of old, used cat litter and then put some of it in an aluminum pie tin on your garage floor mice will stay away better than anything you can buy in a store.

I have two cats, so that shouldn't be a problem......Anybody else that wants to come clean out my litter boxes, feel free

patrickt · #40 (**permalink**) 10-14-2009, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcdoug

I have two cats, so that shouldn't be a problem......Anybody else that wants to come clean out my litter boxes, feel free

Well then you know cat pee is pretty pungent.

The flip side of that coin can also be true. It's an old trick with a new rabbit trap to take a rabbit, slit open the bladder, and sprinkle your new trap with it. That's probably not politically correct anymore though....