Oil Cooler Disconnection - Page 3

rob frink · #41 (**permalink**) 10-27-2009, 07:34 AM

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khansmith · #42 (**permalink**) 10-27-2009, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SKINNEDR

Please help me understand something.
If I purchase the hose and the fittings separately, how do I connect the fiitings to the hose? From what I see the these hoses can be purchased in any length without any thing on the ends. There is a female connection for the hose end, how do you get a close fit (leak free connection) with that?
Help me here to understand the basic...

Also, what kind of tools is basicly used to cut a braided hose?

Sorry ..Dex...

I wish I had this tool when I made my braided lines
http://www.koultools.com/

I bought them recently and really was amazed at how easy it was to create the lines.

ALF · #43 (**permalink**) 10-29-2009, 04:29 AM

which system would you recommend?
- Mocal
- Beaumontmetalworks

Double Venom · #44 (**permalink**) 10-29-2009, 05:01 AM

Aaah,
I wondered if Rob wasn't the owner/seller/designer/engineer to this piece? Expensive? Yes, but it IS pretty enough to frame and put in your shop or even your "racing wall" in your home! PLUS assuming it works it's everything you could ask for!

Rob, I spent 30 years in "cow town? USA, have you just started this business in recent years? I had never heard of your business (or your business address) until Blas posted.

I will surely pass this info along to all my Cobra customers!
DV
PS Now do I get a 125% discount?

Double Venom · #45 (**permalink**) 10-29-2009, 05:10 AM

Double post.
Dv

fastd · #46 (**permalink**) 10-29-2009, 06:20 AM

New related question:
Are we overthinking/oversolving all of this?
If my oil shows 60-70 C in the pan; that means it is hotter coming out of the block, guessing 70-80 C; and in the hottest parts of the engine (bearings, around the pistons, etc), it is probably still hotter, guessing 90-100 C (although I read an article that said the temp difference is actually greater); doesn't that make 60 C in the pan OK if I can keep it there?

Ant · #47 (**permalink**) 10-29-2009, 03:35 PM

Rob,

The little SBF pencil dist/oil pump drive, I dont have one of those in my engine due to pump being belt driven, its all relative hp loss, and running -12 lines everywhere and trying to keep all Aeroquip smooth flowing fittings to try and optomise the system.

I have seen a lot of cars with ext oil coolers and there doesnt seem to be a problem with the oil pumps, maybe a higher volume pump is fitting on factory cars with coolers, oil pressure loss is more to do with leaks or engine clearances, but guys notice losses after they fit these coolers so who am I to say..!

Fastd,
Canton T/stats dont open until the oil hits 215f so thats hot enough for oil to operate efficiently or at least it gets rid of moisture from the oil. Oil is hotter at the crank etc where friction heat is generated, and returns to the main oil gallery a lot cooler maybe. I have an oil temp sender in the oil tank so I will be happy if thats no more than 230f.

Gunner · #48 (**permalink**) 10-29-2009, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastd

New related question:
Are we overthinking/oversolving all of this?
If my oil shows 60-70 C in the pan; that means it is hotter coming out of the block, guessing 70-80 C; and in the hottest parts of the engine (bearings, around the pistons, etc), it is probably still hotter, guessing 90-100 C (although I read an article that said the temp difference is actually greater); doesn't that make 60 C in the pan OK if I can keep it there?

I think maybe YOU'RE overthinking this.

I doubt there's much temperature variance anywhere in the liquid oil once an engine is warmed up. The film on the walls of the cylinders, etc. might be hotter but I'd bet that if you had sensors in every part of the liquid, it would be within a degree or two. (The downstream line from the cooler being the exception.)

The magic 80* is the point at which oil cooks off moisture and vaporizes it, meaning it can be removed by exiting the breather or (better) being pulled out by the PCV system. Any lower and the vaporization will not be as complete.

ALF · #49 (**permalink**) 10-30-2009, 04:53 AM

I'm in the middle to evaluating the best setup for my car and I'm now struggling between two solutions.
- Oil bypass valve from Beaumont (http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/index-perf-ap.html)
- Oil thermostat from MOCAL (http://www.batinc.net/thermos.htm)

Does one of you have experience with this systems and could send me some recommendation?

Some how I've the feeling that the MOCAL system would be enough, but as I would like to select the best solution for my car, your feedback would be really appreciated.

rob frink · #50 (**permalink**) 10-30-2009, 07:12 AM

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rob frink · #51 (**permalink**) 10-30-2009, 07:18 AM

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Ant · #52 (**permalink**) 10-30-2009, 03:36 PM

Rob, exactly I think where more of the road going guys have trouble with oil pressure loss is in-adequate plumbing, and not thinking of the oil system as a whole unit, bit like more hp and the vicious spriral starts with parts and $$$$$.

Alf,

There are some fine looking expensive pieces out there and no doubt they work well, I have the Canton as it has plenty of flow (approx 40gpm) for my alloy engine. I had a Mocal thermostat on my FE390 and no problem, some guys do a little de-burr of the Mocal as the casting isnt that well finished.

Canton in my opinion use the handy US philosophy of bigger is better for the purpose of flow, so I have used their 6" cannister Oil filter as well which flows 45gpm and is claimed to filter down to 8 microns using a special depth filter media.

dcdoug · #53 (**permalink**) 11-10-2009, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silverback51

For Winter driving, I have a piece of .06 clear lexan that I put in front of the cooler. Unless you reach down and touch it, you wouldn't know it's there.

John - what have you found is the best way to attach the lexan to the front of your oil cooler? I need to do the same thing.

Silverback51 · #54 (**permalink**) 11-10-2009, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcdoug

John - what have you found is the best way to attach the lexan to the front of your oil cooler? I need to do the same thing.

It's the same as installing a sliding window. Push it up in the slot, and then let it drop down.

dcdoug · #55 (**permalink**) 11-10-2009, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silverback51

It's the same as installing a sliding window. Push it up in the slot, and then let it drop down.

I didn't really see a slot, but I just took a cursory look. I will take a closer one this weekend.

Silverback51 · #56 (**permalink**) 11-10-2009, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcdoug

I didn't really see a slot, but I just took a cursory look. I will take a closer one this weekend.

It's the gap between the body opening and the oil cooler.

I will see if I can get a picture when I get home today.

Silverback51 · #57 (**permalink**) 11-10-2009, 10:10 AM

Not the best picture, but it's something that was on my computer at work.

You can see that the lexan piece is in place in this photo. It's moved slightly to the side so I got a little cooling with it in place.

Like I said, it fits in the gap between the body and the cooler. Since there is room at the top, I just slip it in the upper gap, and then let it drop down.

Hope that helps.

dcdoug · #58 (**permalink**) 11-10-2009, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silverback51

Not the best picture, but it's something that was on my computer at work.

You can see that the lexan piece is in place in this photo. It's moved slightly to the side so I got a little cooling with it in place.

Like I said, it fits in the gap between the body and the cooler. Since there is room at the top, I just slip it in the upper gap, and then let it drop down.

Hope that helps.

That helps. If a CSX car has the same set-up, then I will go that route. I think my oil cooler might be set a bit farther back, but I'll check it out.