Shift knobs

Gunner · #1 (**permalink**) 11-23-2009, 10:56 AM

My ERA came with the replica Long shifter and the correct 4-speed pattern shift knob. The knob looks great but I found that even a half hour of shifting started to hurt my hand... the ball is too small and there's too many angular edges in the wrong places.

So, for daily driving at least, I decided to install a 2" ball knob with the correct 5-speed pattern. The problem there is that while most Long shifters have the 7/16 thread, this one is so authentic that it uses the original 1/2. I couldn't find a shift knob with all the right features, so I crossed my fingers and ordered a 7/16 knob from Jegs, hoping I could find a correct size insert or drill it or something.

It turns out that the Jegs line of knobs has a 5/8 insert with an aluminum bushing to reduce it to the common sizes. It was no particular trouble to drill out the 7/16 insert and tap it to 1/2-20. (It would have been easier if I could get to my bench tools, but I did with with hand tools in not too much longer...)

I superglued the bushing in place in the knob insert and voila, a big fat comfortable shift knob with the correct pattern. I can row that sucker all day without any pain, and it doesn't look particularly out of place for the era.

My remaining problem is finding a suitable jam nut. I have a 1/2 inch hex jam nut (thinner than a standard nut), which works and looks okay if a bit industrial. I tried drilling and tapping a thick chrome washer but the threads came out poorly... trying to safely clamp the chrome piece and get a clean start on the tap was a failure. I may try again if I can't find something off the shelf. It might also be an approach to drill and tap the knob for a setscrew.

I plan to put the original knob back on for show. But I'm pleased with this semi-original mod.

What shift knob have you found suitable?

CobraDan · #2 (**permalink**) 11-23-2009, 02:11 PM

Get a stainless ½ inch nut and hack saw it in half, then lay it flat against a file and dress it flat then polish and you will have your thin lock nut for your new shift knob. I have a automatic trans and my buddy made me a custom knob which I secured in my recommended suggested way.

Gunner · #3 (**permalink**) 11-23-2009, 02:22 PM

I was considering grinding down the jam nut, but I'd prefer a smooth or knurled outer edge over a hex.

I might try the washer thing again. We have a hardware store here that has a tremendous fasteners section, so finding a thick (.010) chrome washer was no problem. I couldn't come up with a good way to clamp it without damaging the finish, so it slipped a couple of times and the tapping was flawed. I think I have a way to hold it - clamp the sh*t out of it in a vise with hardwood or poly blocks - for drilling and a clean tap. That would give me a nice, thin, visually appealing lock nut.

I might also start with a knurled lamp nut of the right size.

CobraDan · #4 (**permalink**) 11-23-2009, 02:30 PM

The only problem with a washer is like you said you can’t hold on to it to secure it and unless it takes up the needed space to secure your knob when you run it all the way down you have accomplished nothing, with the nut you run one into the other and can grip the nut with a wrench and the ball with your hand.

Rick Parker · #5 (**permalink**) 11-23-2009, 02:46 PM

Try this, I did this for the jamb nuts used throughout the rod ends in my suspension, it is esthetically pleasing:
Get a 7/16 stainless jamb nut, run it on to a 7/16 tap then have a machinist chuck it in a chuck type steady rest on a lathe and then clamp the nut (with the tap centering it) into the chuck, then drill and tap for the 1/2" size. You can then also "thin" it down by various means if you want to. The finished overall size iwill be much easier on you eyes and will feel better in your hand.
This could also be done by putting 2 "flats" 180 degrees apart on a piece of round stock (in a Mill) and then drilling and tapping and parting off a piece (in a lathe) the thickness you desire. Not hard to do if the proper tools are available.

Gunner · #6 (**permalink**) 11-23-2009, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CobraDan

The only problem with a washer is like you said you can’t hold on to it to secure it...

Actually, you can get a fair amount of snugness on such a lock nut by gripping it with padded pliers and applying the torque to the knob itself. It can take a couple of tries to get the knob finally lined up the correct way but I've used something like this in other situations and never had the knob work loose. The torque needed to hold the jam nut is a fraction of what it takes to tighten it down.

Rick, I've thought of several solutions that would produce a "pretty" jam nut but not having a machine shop at hand makes most of them tough - and I'm not willing to pay a $20-30 shop minimum for such a trivial job.

tcrist · #7 (**permalink**) 11-23-2009, 05:08 PM

Gunner,
Try, http://www.mcmaster.com
Search for jam nuts

Terry

Rick Parker · #8 (**permalink**) 11-23-2009, 06:55 PM

I agree it is a lot of effort for such a small item, how about just some Blue Loctite?

Gunner · #9 (**permalink**) 11-23-2009, 08:09 PM

I do want to be able to remove it to swap on the OEM knob for show. I also want it to stay tight under my hand. Loctite would be a good choice for more permanent mounting but I'm afraid it would cause problems with frequent removal.

Tcrist, I have an excellent selection of jam nuts locally but they (and everything I see in McMaster) are hex nuts. I'd like to find a "beauty" nut with a smooth or knurled outside if I can. I'll fab something up when I can get to my bench tools. The tapped chrome washer would have been aces if I could have gotten a clean tap on it.

Gunner · #10 (**permalink**) 11-23-2009, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick Parker

I agree it is a lot of effort for such a small item...

These cars are all about the small items, it seems...

patrickt · #11 (**permalink**) 11-23-2009, 08:12 PM

Gunner, post a shot of your new knob (and your old one, too -- if you can).

427mudflap · #12 (**permalink**) 11-23-2009, 11:00 PM

Did any of you build your cars, or just buy them?
If you don't have some 5/8 303 S. S. hex stock and a lathe,
use blue loctite and a strap wrench.

Rick Parker · #13 (**permalink**) 11-24-2009, 12:20 AM

Blue Loctite will allow you to remove it with an energenic twisting effort but still retain it for normal usage. You're overthinking this if you don't have the ability of making a specialized part...........

Gunner · #14 (**permalink**) 11-24-2009, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 427mudflap

Did any of you build your cars, or just buy them?

Busted every knuckle except paint, long-block engine and tranny on the Mustang, why? Also maintained all my own drivers until everything on that side of the driveway had a full-maintenance warranty.

My heavy tools are currently buried just deeply enough that I can't get to them, so I'm fiddling with small tools on what I can, including this minor project.

My hope was that someone would point me to a source of beauty or finish nuts that I was unaware of. I have a preference for mechanical locking on parts I intend to remove frequently. Loctite's fine for many things but I'd prefer not to use it in these situations. I've had composite parts, such as a hollow shift ball with a brass insert, break when trying to undo even a blue Loctite seal.

CobraDan · #15 (**permalink**) 11-24-2009, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 427mudflap

Did any of you build your cars, or just buy them?
If you don't have some 5/8 303 S. S. hex stock and a lathe,
use blue loctite and a strap wrench.

I turned every nut and bolt did the body work and painted my car and what have you done on your Cobra mudflap?

Gunner · #16 (**permalink**) 11-24-2009, 10:50 AM

Current knob, 2" ball with 5-sp pattern, using "thin" hex jam nut. The photo makes the nut stand out more against the chrome than it does in reality. A polished SS nut (or chrome) would be a better match. The nut is no problem with "feel" at all; my fingers get nowhere near it in normal driving. The looks are off, though - a little heavy and industrial looking to me.

Current knob with thin chrome beauty jam nut, the look I'm going for. This nut has a bad tap; I may try again with better clamping on the nut.

OEM knob, looks great, will go on for show, but has 4-sp pattern and is too small and angular for my hand's comfort.

tcrist · #17 (**permalink**) 11-24-2009, 12:46 PM

Gunner,
Contact Street Rods Plus in Lodi and see if they can help.
http://www.streetrodsplus.net

Terry

427mudflap · #18 (**permalink**) 11-24-2009, 09:38 PM

grind the bottom of the 2" ball until the flat is the same width as the factory chrome large lock nut that is in your picture.

Gunner · #19 (**permalink**) 11-24-2009, 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 427mudflap

grind the bottom of the 2" ball until the flat is the same width as the factory chrome large lock nut that is in your picture.

Wrong diameter and curvature. Also not sure there is enough threaded depth on the inserts to retain a solid mount. But a good idea...

EDIT: Actually, such a good idea I went out to look. It would work except that the knob threads are only about 1/2 inch deep and I'd have to remove almost 3/8" of the ball to match the nut diameter. Damn, that would been perfect.

If I could find any smaller-diameter lock nut in this size I'd be set. Maybe I'll see what I can do to grind down a stainless hex nut, as suggested. I don't have a lathe but for such simple work There Are Ways...