Lucas additivies

[priobe]

Hello all,

Just wanted to know how many of you use the Lucas additives with your oil.

I just tried some in my personal vehicle 2003 HD F-150 Supercharged. I noticed that the stuff is pretty thick. However, I noticed when idling in gear my vacuum is normally at 18 sq. in.

After adding the Lucas additive I noticed that the vacuum is up to 21 sq in. at idle in gear.

Seems like this stuff is pretty good

[Tom Kirkham]

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

[Gunner]

That page contains some very useful information... written in the most convoluted, opaque style possible. I've read it three times and I *think* Bob is dead set against the Lucas, but it's hard to tell.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by Gunner

That page contains some very useful information... written in the most convoluted, opaque style possible. I've read it three times and I *think* Bob is dead set against the Lucas, but it's hard to tell.

That was my conclusion also. I wouldn't use it after seeing the experiment with foaming.

[khansmith]

If that experiment is accurate; that is scary! I just bought some but didn't put it in my car. What are folks thought on ZMAX and/or Mystery Oil?

[scottj]

Originally Posted by khansmith

If that experiment is accurate; that is scary! I just bought some but didn't put it in my car. What are folks thought on ZMAX and/or Mystery Oil?

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/02/zmax1.shtm

I only use Marvel Mystery Oil as an engine fogger for storage purposes. Beyond that any "performance" benefit claims would be highly suspect.

[vettestr]

I have a lawn tractor with a Briggs Stratton air cooled engine that I picked up with engine problems dirt cheap. It was loosing a rod bearing when I checked it out (uses a dipper on the rod for splash oiling). The parts and work needed lead me to purchase a new engine rather than fix the original. I was convinced dry start up helped shorten its life. In Arizona an air cooled engine is under extra stress and shutting it down hotter then heck allows all the oil to drip dry before the next start up.

I added the correct amount of Lucas to the 13.5 HP air cooled engine to fight dry start up. After 1 or 2 weeks of sitting I can remove the dipstick and it remains coated top to bottom. The engine is hotter than heck after mowing my 1 acre back yard even with a cooling fan I added, it is still well above 90 to a 100 degrees on a summer evening. With oil alone the dip stick was bone dry above fluid level but adding Lucas it remains coated. You must wipe the dip stick with a cloth to get a reading telling me everything else is coated as well. If nothing else it helps dry start up and is not foamed even with engine running. I like the product !!

I had to pull a case cover to fix a oil leak and found a big sand casting pit I fixed with JB Weld but it worked. The internals looked great inside with no real wear showing after 4 years of use for about anything you can think of including using it as a tow rig for anything it has the traction to move.

[RICK LAKE]

I saw good old bob once and the test he did. This IMO is NOT real world or life of a motor. Do I run additives in my fleet, YES. It started about 36 years ago with just STP. I have 2 motors with over 120,000 miles on them. Racing hard drive, high speed driving. These 2 motors always have good oil pressure when hot or cold. I like the fact of having a clinging oil in my motor. I am more than happy to give up a couple of HP and extend the life of any motor. I broke a rocker shaft when racing, this was before I added my accusump to the car. I ran the road course at Gateway. Lifter poped out of the bore dueing the run. 1.35 miles. I finished the run with 20 psi of pressure. I pulled the 452 bottom end and found no damage other than a couple of small scratch marks from the motor running low oil pressure. I think that the clinging oil helped save the bottom end bearings. I now run an accusump as a peroiler for the motor before startup and when running long "g" turns that cause oil starvation. This keeps up the oil pressure until the pickup is submerged. 70-80% of wear on a motor is done dueing startup when the oil has only the oil left on the parts after it drain off from running.
I have run the cobra motor to 6,000 rpms racing, I have not seen ANY FOAMING ISSUES with Lucas or EOS. Maybe at 7,500 rpms this my happen. Lusac cost $8.88 in Pepboys for the next 2 weeks. I have picked up 6 bottles.
This issue is about choice and what you believe. I am not buying Bobs test. I have done my own with my cars and trucks. Quiet cold starts an no motor noise is my ONLY concern. You can make any fluid foam if compressed and whipped enough at a high speed. This is the main reason I don't like Mobil 1 oils. Too thin and it just run off the bearings and surfaces when sitting for a couple of days. Have done this test with Vettes at work. Bob's test may also be questionable with how he mixed the suppliment and oil together?? I would like to hear the answer to this question. Rick L. Ps I don't have any stocks in the oil companies, Lucas, or a PHD. Just common sense.

[MaSnaka]

For one more observation in Bob's test there was no heat. Oil and additives were room temperature. I'm not advocating one way or the other but am a curious bystander on this. "additive or no additive....now that is the question"

John

[Gunner]

To believe additives do anything useful, you have to believe that all modern oils are badly formulated to do their job. The notion that every oil, in every engine, for every purpose needs mystical magical marvel additive, is... odd.

[Karl Bebout]

Marvel Mystery Oil has been around since dirt and for certain uses, I think, it is a good product. 40 years ago my buddy added an ounce or two per tank full of regular grade gasoline in his high compression AH Sprite. Saved him the extra cost of high test gas and then MMO was only about $.50 for a pint can. I use one ounce per gallon of 105 AV gas in my Cobra and have never had detonation issues. (I have only 10 1/2 to 1 compression, but occasionally will give it a shot of NOS, just for grins) No problems with burning my spark plug electrodes, runs clean, smells great, 'way cheaper than racing fuel. I know, I know. Another whole can of worms opened up.

[Gunner]

Keep your worms. I'd just settle for some controlled experiments instead of endless anecdotal reports... anecdotal evidence not being worth the paper it's written on.

[jwd]

Originally Posted by Gunner

To believe additives do anything useful, you have to believe that all modern oils are badly formulated to do their job. The notion that every oil, in every engine, for every purpose needs mystical magical marvel additive, is... odd.

Originally Posted by Gunner

Keep your worms. I'd just settle for some controlled experiments instead of endless anecdotal reports... anecdotal evidence not being worth the paper it's written on.

I agree. It's all an attempt to get you to part with your money. Same as gas additives. They do absolutely nothing. Oil co.'s spend trillions of dollars on research and testing. Don't you think that if there was something to give them an edge on the competition, they'd already be putting it in their product.

Rick, Regarding your comment about Mobile1, if it's so terrible why is it the only approved oil for some of the most powerful (and warranted) engines in the world (including the Corvette)?

[RICK LAKE]

jwd JW part of the issues are emissions, gas mileage and getting every last hp out of the motor. One #1 sales rule for high performance cars, I have more HP than anyone else. GM pays when the goal is not made. Any of the LS motors are a great design and run very well. The newer ones need oil squirters to help lube the piston pins because of not enough oil splash. Going to dry sump also effect this. We have new cars and cars with 20k miles on them. You start them up after sitting for a couple of days and everything makes noise. piston slap, lifters and rocker noises until the oil pressure is built up. This is with Mobil one in the motor, 5-30w Bottom end is still primary for oiling. Rest has to wait. During this time, ( the first 5-10 seconds) there is no oil going to the rockers. We have had covers off motors to see this first hand. I can't show you how many Service bulletins we get on oil and motor issues for noise. The same final line is said. GM has test this and the engineers say it's normal. NO REPLACEMENT of any parts at this time.
If Mobil1 works for you and you are happy with it, that's fine. I know Nascar runs 0w oils for 600 miles without any failures. After that, this motor is pulled apart and either rebuilt or trashed. I don't think you are going to drive your car for 5-10k miles and rebuild the motor. Racing and Street driving are 2 different things. Some of the guys here that race are rebuilding their motors 1-3 times over the summer. Me I want to go 5-10 years before a rebuild.
I just watch a car get towwed out of the shop to the junk yard, saleman owned it. 243,000 miles on the orginial motor. I have seen the history on the car. Oil changes at every 5,000 miles. Mobil1 for 5 quarts and adds 1-2 quarts during this time between changes. Car had the normal seepage from seals. Car was on the 2nd trans and 1 timing chain done at 140k miles. Average 3-4K miles per week. 90% highway 10% local. He had a bad knock in the bottom end and the oil light was on at idle. Manual Gauge show 5 psi at idle and 26 at 2,000 rpms. Pulled pan, #5 & #6 rod bearings and crank gone. Oil pan was clean except for metal shavings. He said Mobil is getting him about 1-2 mpg over non sythesis oil. Maintainance cost was about the same. His Last 3 cars have all gone 200K. This one was tired. Mobil work for this guy.
I look at this this way, when ALL cars have full sythesis oil in them from the factory, then I may have to switch. Until then, Quarker State high Mileage with additive is working just fine.
JW there is one problem that mobil doesn't have, less oil coking over time in the motor. I an not a big fan of Amsoil but this is also one of the better oils on the market. Have no tests on Royal Purple at this time.
Again JW it's just choice, but there have been some changes to breaking in motors with solid lifters in cobra motors. Some of the Best FE builders have had failures over the last 2-3 years. I have been lucky with the last 8 motors. All different motors with the same basic breakin way. Peroil, remove valve springs( dampeners ) 2,000 rpm max. 1 extra quart of oil in the crank case. 30 minutes of run time. 1 bottle of old stock EOS. 1 bottle of Lucas oil suppliment with the oil change. This is poured in when the motor is run again and the oil is at operating temp of 140f and added slow over a 5-10 minute time. I'm done and getting off my soap box. JW hope you have had a good holiday season and looking forward to a great driving summer this year. Rick L.

[Bill Bess]

I thought using an addtives were useful because modern oil lacks zink, and zink protects the bearings.
What you say!

[Bob In Ct]

The most important reason for using Lucas products is because they keep car thieves away. I've been using Lucas for over 40 years now and have never had a car stolen! What more proof do you need?

Bob

[joyridin']

My old 1987 Toyota SR-5 had 355,000 when I sold it. I had put 2 turbos on it, 2 beds, but never touched the engine except for a water pump, basic tune-up, and oil changes.

I changed the oil every 10k with anything that was on sale. I also used a Purolator filter. Even took the truck racing in it's younger days.

I think it is more how the engine is designed sometimes over what you put in it.