Because Chas. says so. If you want to ask intelligent questions, then keep them to yourself.:p

No. Sorry if I didn't make this clear.

Assuming you do not evacuate your entire system:
Drain and refill your pan with 7 qts. Remove your filter and put .75 qt in the new one. You already have .5 qt in your lines, plus at least .5 qt in your cooler. Your system now contains 8.75 qts-at least. Draining a pan leaves maybe 2 pints in the pan unless you lean the car over on the stands. Your cooler may hold more depending on whose it is. My Earls is .5 qt. Where is Euclid when you need him?:confused:

C'mon-I said you were a pretty bright guy...:LOL:

Uhhh, you don't need Euclid on this one. With Aviaid, 9 qts. means 9 qts. Rod, pull the drain plug, use your jack to tilt the car in the direction of the hole, let it drain until it quits dribbling, then if you put 8 quarts in the filler hole I bet your level on the dipstick will then be right on the "add one quart" line of your stick. Aviaid doesn't screw around with "system volume" and the like, nor do they confuse you with the quart in the filter, etc....



INITIAL OIL PAN FILLING AND DIP STICK MARKING PROCEDURE

We rate our oil pans for static level in the pan. This is the quantity of oil that will fill the sump up to about the underside of the hard tray bolted into the pan. We recommend that the 1st time you fill the pan in the car, with the car flat on the ground and the pan empty, you add 1 quart less than the advertised number of quarts and mark the stick. Add 1 more quart and mark the stick again. This is a high-low marking procedure. Then start the engine. Let everything pressurize and fill, shut the engine down, and let everything drain down for a few minutes. Then add oil to bring the level back to the top mark on the stick, noting how much oil is required to fill the pan back up to the top mark. The total of the added oil plus the initial fill will give you system capacity. This now includes lines, filter, cooler, whatever. From that point you can adjust level to suite your requirements. Some will run a little more, some a little less, depending on usage.

Source: http://www.aviaid.com/pdfs/pan_dip_stick.pdf

This must be the truth for YOU Rod, because Karnak used REALLY BIG LETTERS to yell at me. This must suite(sic) your requirements.

The rest of us have Cantons which taper up to the crank at the rear (unlike yours) and we'd have oil on the passenger floor if we did that.

It would run perfectly with 9 total in it...

Actually, I was tempted to just allow you to repeatedly give Rod the wrong advice:LOL::LOL::LOL:, but that goes against the spirit of this forum. Not to mention the fact that even Rod was starting to spot it as bogus.;)

Well, we all have our strengths and weaknesses. If we're talking about the Zen of the Triangle Offense and the artfulness of the 1-3-1 half court zone trap defense, then I'm your man, er, coach. :LOL:

I won't be evacuating my entire system. Drain pan and oil filter. Pan takes 9 quarts and oil filter about one or less. As Got The Bug and Patrick mentioned earlier, I will add .75 or whatever to the filter and 8 quarts to the pan. Start and run and then check it later. Add to full line. Ta Da!

Chas and Patrick, please never stop being you. You guys are too funny. Sharp wit that I can't match.

Thanks Rod but you have 482 inches of KCR bauxite.......and tons of aluminum!!!:LOL:

And seriously-I would never give any guy on here bogus info. If I had one, I'd run the Aviad just like I do the Canton.

Well I agree you wouldn't do it on purpose....:cool:

Actually, Tom Lucas at FE Specialties built it.

It was 70 degrees and sunny today, so I took the Cobra out for a nice long ride for the first time in about 2 1/2 months.

And I tell ya, stopped at a gas station, and a passerby wanted to know if it were chrome paint. Gee, what a surprise. :CRY:

You've just brought the Kirkham brothers to tears. :(

It hasn't been raining for 2 1/2 months...you could go to Cobra jail and your car could be confiscated for lack of use. :3DSMILE:

That's pretty funny. Hopefully Chas. has shaken off his earlier serial faux pas and is now busy preparing for Fat Tuesday.;)

Nah-I feel as bad as if I had sent a guy to the hardware store for any old clutch fork actuator...

Seems you just can't try to help guys with long-term experience-even if they ask. Drag race guys running 9's on 2 less qts of oil would laugh at street car guys fretting whether to use 10 or 11.

You're recovering from your chronic snow-blindness Mr Brice?

“Today was good. Today was fun. Tomorrow is another one.”

http://images.barnesandnoble.com/ima...0/20784907.JPG

Ah, give me a break. We were away for holidays, its been raining and I'm busy dagnabit.

Plus, I like sitting here seeing who will win the Jeopardy championship. Chas or Patrick?

coyote
 

Use a better oil. The anti wear additive packages in all SM specified oils have been removed. More friction causes higher temps. Use Royal Purple 5W30. It has 400% higher film strength than anything on the market. You will like the additional performance as well.
The lower oil psi is caused by the fact that it takes less energy to pump a ligher oil around an engine. You don't need higher psi to do the job.