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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2010, 02:05 PM
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Jim, one thing that hasn't been said for sure, I think in either of these posts, was whether you are using a pilot "bushing" or a pilot "bearing." I say this because my own experience showed that the bearing, though offering less rotational friction, does tend to sit out farther from the crank than the bushing does. I had to have my input shaft machined back a few thou to make everything play nice together.

Steve
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2010, 03:34 PM
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most of the time when a clutch drags, it is because whoever installed it let the weight of the trans hang on the input shaft of the trans thru the clutch bending the center of the disc--this makes it instant junk and there is no way to fix it except to replace the disc, using the proper alignment splines and long guide studs in the bellhousing to guide the trans exactly down the center without any weight being rested on the input shaft/splines
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2010, 03:44 PM
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The pressure plate bolts may be loose, or pulling out. This is a more common problem with FE and aluminum flywheels.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2010, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovehamr View Post
Jim, one thing that hasn't been said for sure, I think in either of these posts, was whether you are using a pilot "bushing" or a pilot "bearing." I say this because my own experience showed that the bearing, though offering less rotational friction, does tend to sit out farther from the crank than the bushing does. I had to have my input shaft machined back a few thou to make everything play nice together.

Steve
Thanks for that mental picture. Now I'm worried that they used a GM trans instead of a Ford tranny.
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Old 02-24-2010, 04:21 PM
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Default You have the trans out

jhv48 J any chance of getting a first name?? To check the trans for what input shaft you have measure the diameter and the number of splines on it.
Next measure the length of the input shaft to where the pilot bushing is riding. This is from the trans body to where the end of the bushing rides on the input shaft. Next measure the bellhousing from ground to the back of where the trans sits. Last is to put the bell housing on the motor with out the clutch and measure from the face of the bellhousing to the pilot bushing in the crank. Need these 4 numbers to see what the clearances are. Again what bellhousing are you running??? This clutch should n't be worn out in 1,500 miles unless you can't drive a clutch car. I know this is not the problem?? Rick L.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2010, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RICK LAKE View Post
jhv48 J any chance of getting a first name??
Do you mean Jim?
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2010, 05:06 PM
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Whew, the correct trans was used.

And they still think the pilot bearing is the culprit, as they have checked everything else and all parts look and function like new.

Man I hope that's it. Hate to button this thing back up and then have to do it again.
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Old 02-25-2010, 04:05 AM
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Default 22 hour await and working you get punchie

Ibr8k4vetts I missed it after 22 hours. My bad. Rick
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2010, 07:46 AM
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How does the tip if the input shaft look? Is it scratched or galled? Any blueing?? If there were a pilot bearing problem, you would think there would be some evidence of it on the tip of the input shaft.

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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2010, 10:39 AM
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The tip has been proclaimed healthy.

I think the bushing is the softer of the two and would expect the damage to show up there first.
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2010, 11:01 AM
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Pertaining to the senario that Jerry Clayton has described.
Have you done a test on the disc to see if the center is bent which would cause the dics to wobble when spun true from the imput shaft area.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2010, 11:48 AM
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Yep, the disc is ok.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2010, 02:20 PM
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Default Solution

According to the installer.............................

It was the F---ing pilot bushing.

Replaced it, put it all back together with the same parts (that was a big gamble) and they say it drives like new.

I pick it up today. Will let you know if that did it!

Hope this helps any others who experience abnormal grinding in reverse.
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Last edited by jhv48; 02-25-2010 at 02:31 PM..
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2010, 02:39 PM
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What about the bushing?? Worn, too small, not in deep enough???

Is it truely a bushing, or a needle bearing type?


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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2010, 07:09 PM
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Nothing visible on the bushing. But defective somehow.

Just drove the car 60 miles. All is ok for now.
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Last edited by jhv48; 02-25-2010 at 08:29 PM..
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Old 02-28-2010, 06:33 AM
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wow. never heard of that before but makes sense. i'm a bit surprised it didn't grind into first but then again, reverse is a much lower gear. glad you caught it early and on are your way.

Last edited by TButtrick; 02-28-2010 at 06:36 AM..
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2010, 03:55 PM
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I hope they checked the bellhousing concentricity when the trans was out. That would be a primary candidate as a cause for a short-lived pilot bearing.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2010, 07:35 PM
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I'll know in another 1500 miles or so.
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Old 05-05-2010, 11:45 AM
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The problem reared its ugly head again in 700 miles.

However, this time it was the slave cylinder installation. They had to put a washer on the tip of the slave rod to keep it from slipping through the shift fork. The washer was just a bit too small and it was pushing through the fork slightly so that the clutch would not completely disengage. Put a larger washer on the end of the rod and the problem went away..........for now!
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Old 05-06-2010, 06:53 AM
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My TKO will grind going into reverse,unless the clutch is adjusted properly.My 11" clutch needs to have almost no freeplay.
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