Has anyone connected TKO 600 vent to an oil puke tank?

[patrickt]

Really, our Cobras today are no different, other than the price, from the one I had in 1964:

[Excaliber]

You know one of my favorite things about a "Cobra" is how many different ways you can change the looks and still be in the "ball park" of originality. Just like playing with models!

I've had my front grill opening with and without the "air splitter". I've run chrome bumpers to black quick jacks. Sometimes I feel like the old school vinyl "sponsor" stickers look cool, sometimes not. I've had white, black and yellow (at different times) for "team stripes" on the front fender (two or even three stripes, mix it up). I use colored DUCT TAPE for the stripes!! I used to have a red with white stripes Cobra, still one of my all time favorite combos. But there were a couple of others just like that in Hawaii, to many. So rather than add white stripes to my solid red body, I had the hood painted a flat black (kind of recognizing the ricer trend today I guess). But there was at least one original Cobra that was red, black hood!

Maybe when I get it painted I'll go back to a red hood, but then again, I might go white stripes this time. I'm fortunate that my wheels use "inserts" to emulate the classic look. Why fortunate? Because I can take out the inserts and just run the spinners against a flat black background. It looks cool that way, definitely an "old school" look. Having two sets of wheels I can run street tires or slap on those terrific looking yellow letter Goodyears.

The combinations are endless as to what you can do, and still keep it in the ball park of "real".

My latest gig may be swapping out the round tail lights for the square ones!

OK, heres a pic with the wheel inserts removed. BUT, my nuts are showing (I hate when that happens). I forgot to touch up the chrome lug nuts with a shot of black paint that particular time. With the spinner against a black background, I think it's a nice look, for a change. I've painted the inserts various colors over the years, black, white, red (that looked horrible) and have another set that is "natural". They look very very real indeed when they are on.



At the track and running "black":

[strictlypersonl]

I wonder if Revell would mind if I used their sheet for my new assembly manual.

Although their "history" needs a little editing for accuracy...

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by strictlypersonl

I wonder if Revell would mind if I used their sheet for my new assembly manual.

Although their "history" needs a little editing for accuracy...

Aww, dang... I had already planned on posting that the next time somebody had a question on the ERA Jag rear.

[elmariachi]

Just looking at that assembly diagram, I can see now see where I went wrong. I didn't cement the driver's head halves together.

[mickmate]

Never let a good opportunity for a thread hijack slip by huh Doug?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by elmariachi

I didn't cement the driver's head halves together.

We'll do that for you after you roll your car....

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by mickmate

Never let a good opportunity for a thread hijack slip by huh Doug?

I sort of contributed and don't mind that much.

It would be great if someone actually had an answer though. I am sort of surprised that no one on CC has done this? I guess using a TKO is heresy to most that are that dedicated on being period correct.

[mickmate]

We'll try a pic of the TL set up. Interesting that when I ran and revved the motor I don't feel any pressure or vacuum from the puke.

[Excaliber]

I certainly wouldn't expect to be able to detect any pressure of vacuum signal from the puke tank. Or even measure such a change with sensitive equipement. On a normal system I don't see any reason why the trans or the rear end would "puke" or "draw" from such a vent.

It would have to be a rather catastrophic event for either the trans or the rear end to "puke", that vent is pretty high up in the case for either item.

As it concerns the case(s) I'm aware where the rear end DID puke into the trans it was determined that the rear cover was the fault. The wrong design, the wrong positioning of the vent, which was tee'd to the trans. An over filled rear end. Even then, one could speculate that was not the actual cause of the rear end running out of oil and destroying itself. But it does beg the question: WHERE did that oil go and WHY did enough of it leave the rear end to cause a gear failure and end up in the trans??

What would have to happen for a trans or a rear end to start pushing it's oil out the vent?

[Bill Bess]

Well Doug, my thought is...do whatever you want to do, it's your toy and you have to love it.
I use the KISS method on everything "Keep It Simple Stupid". The more stuff you have, the more potential problems you might have, plus added expense and possible reduce reliability.

If your racing, it's a whole different ball game....rules.

Have fun, Bill

[Jamo]

...and, with respect to KISS...the old ways usually are.

Mine came equipped as an original S/C would be...straight from Provo. The puke tank was equipped with a road draft tube, which allowed venting for the engine vapors down at roadside. This is the reason old roads always had that dark stain down the middle of the lane...road draft tubes were used on everything...until pcvs came along.

Normally, the road draft venting was used for engines. Racing rules required that fluids never hit the pavement, so puke tanks were required. In the Cobras, the KISS approach was to use a single tank, so the rear, trans and engine are all vented into that old lawn mower gas tank on the firewall. A tube at the upper passenger side fitting allows the vapors from all three (usually very little from the trans and rear...probably pretty mucky in those several feet of uphill tubing) get sucked down through the road draft tube which has its end out in the airflow. What fluid is left (a slight amount of engine oil and a wee bit of whatever trans/rear vapors don't get sucked out) drop back into the oil pan. I change the oil/filter every 2500 or so.

Complicated? Naw...about as simple as it gets. I don't have a minor motor or a right foot (on the road or track) and it has done its job perfectly well for the past seven years, just as it did for the past 40 years on Dick Smith's old POS.

I love the fact that I leave a bit of a road tatoo on the pavement I pass over...hope the hell it stains the Priusi which follow.

To each his own...

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by Jamo

Mine came equipped as an original S/C would be...straight from Provo. The puke tank was equipped with a road draft tube, which allowed venting for the engine vapors down at roadside. This is the reason old roads always had that dark stain down the middle of the lane...road draft tubes were used on everything...until pcvs came along

Are you running a top loader or a TKO? If TKO, how is the vent tube connected to it?

[Excaliber]

...not a chance Jamo is running a TKO. Real men run a top loader.

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by Excaliber

...not a chance Jamo is running a TKO. Real men run a top loader.

So did you turn in your man card then?

[Excaliber]

I did, I hate myself.

[Jamo]

Originally Posted by Excaliber

I did, I hate myself.

LMAO...

Yeah...I make do with four forward gears as the gods of the 60s intended. I was simply responding to comments made about the original setup.

[RICK LAKE]

dcdoug Doug I have 2 tanks to help keep the oil off the track. 1 for the trans and the other for the rearend. I have fire blanket covering the tunnel in the car. Alot of heat in there and has no place to go. Don C. is the only guy I know who ran a snorkle scoop to the rearend of the car. It helps to cool the inner brakes and rear diff. I have had to add tanks to help control the pressure in the trans and rearend of the car. The rearend had a vent tube like Pat T has on his car. Mine just gets hotter from track time. I added a smaller breather tank with filter to help keep the oil off the track. The oil goes back into the rearend when cooled off. The same works for the trans. I am going to a pump and cooler because again of too much heat in the tunnel. I have 2 small 4" fans to move the air in the tunnel but getting cooler air into the tunnel is a pain and not burning up the fans too. Some cars have more room under the car for tanks, coolers, and pumps than ERA has. There are no problems with ERA cars for street driving and track. I went too a more safety approach for racing.
If you have the room, IMO I see no problem with adding them to the drivetrain as long as you check the fluids on a regular basic check. Water doesn't mix with oil and if the car is run in wet weather or puddles, you can have a problem with water doing damage to drive train bearings and other steel parts. Condemsation does happen. My fluids are changed after 3-4 track meets. Fluid is cheap and this gives me a chance to catch any damage that may start to happen to trans or rearend. Good Luck Rick L.

[Jamo]

Rick Lake Rick you're still running inboard brakes?

[RICK LAKE]

JAMO Yes, I just ordered a new enclosed trailer. It will take the next year to pay it off. Motor is on back burner(498). Have some more suspension work to do before going to autocross tires and run with the big boys. I can add blowers for the brakes and help control the temp. I do have the Orginial style scoops for the front and rear brakes. They are helping, but the fluid is cooked after 2-3 events. Running DOT 4. I have a pressure bleeder and it only takes 5 minutes to do with the rear opening to the rearend in the car. Rick L.