Thinking of Moving to a carb setup

[blykins]

BTW,

I'm doing a similar build to yours right now for another forum member. Dart Sportsman block, 4.125"x4.000", AFR 205 heads, solid roller camshaft, 10.5:1 SCR, etc. This is for a Unique Cobra with a 3.70 rear gear and a TKO 600 with a .82 5th gear. I'll be using a Super Victor for his application.

I like the intake to be able to support the head flow and a larger displacement combined with a lightweight car and a steeper rear gear can take away any low rpm throttle response issues caused by runner velocity.

[mpanten]

well thats something to consider beacuse im running a 3.27 rear end. Im looking at about 2500 to switch this over I may be better off with a differnet injection system such as the fast set up. The megasquirt workd pretty good but I cant find anyone willing to tune it.

[blykins]

$2500 to switch to a carb setup?

[ekrupa2]

Originally Posted by mpanten

I just had it re built and it is makeing a very loud pop from the pipes when I let off the gas after moderate acceleration. I could go with another FI program but would rather just simplify. If anyone is lokking for a FI set set up to run with your car let me know.

Are you sure this is an EFI issue and not blown collector gaskets? I was chasing this issue last summer and along with with blown intake gaskets. My collector gaskets were completely blown (on an SPF the tell tale sign is carbon soot on the polished reflective heat shields surrounding collector flange). Gave me a nice backfire on hard deceleration due to sucking in air. Replaced with the Remflex collector gaskets and all is well.

[mpanten]

No Im not sure, I have new header gaskets too and they may need tightened. Im just frustrated that I cant find anyone with a dyno to tweak this thing. When I had it rebuilt they dynoed it with a carb and it made 600 hp with no adjustments. The backfires are pretty loud and concering. I should change them first before I go the carb route but im just looking at options.

[mpanten]

Originally Posted by blykins

$2500 to switch to a carb setup?

well if im looking at 2k for a really good carb, intake and linkage then yes. I am currently running the ford edis 8 distributerless ignition so I would need a distributer and an ignition as well.

[Excaliber]

Well you know I'm not doing "that much" auto cross or road racing, "just enough" to where it pisses me off the dual carbs tend to flood under extreme hard sweeper type corners.

I want a choke! It's cold here, my motor runs like crap when it's cold, that was never an issue in Hawaii (go figure). I also prefer vacuum secondary. Plus it's got to be good in the corners. HA HA, I want it all (at a nice price). I was figuring 600 to 700 for a carb. I'd keep my duals and change out to the single carb every now and then, depending on what I plan for the next few months at a time.

You know those Remflex gaskets are 100% the best in the industry, no question, they are a terrific product!!

[mpanten]

where do I get the remflex gaskets?

[Excaliber]

remflex.com Eh Eh, there are expensive, but man are the good and my exhaust header bolts do not lossen up and require re-torquing. I've tried all kinds of other gaskets, nothing worked on MY motor. I went with straight copper exhaust gaskets, high dollar, they didn't work either. Before, everything would burn through somewhere. Not Remflex!

http://www.remflex.com/

[WardL]

I have a BIGS Stage 5 750 double pumper on top of a Roush 427 SRTW and it works great. Since I am pretty inexperienced, so I'm not sure HOW GREAT. It is maybe not as smooth at slow speeds around town, but not a big deal. How much do you think gas mileage varies with a particular carb set up?

[blykins]

Mark, I'm counting about $1400 including the distributor, ignition box, intake, and carb. Surely the regular old SPF carb linkage isn't that much.

Ernie, I suppose you don't want a double pumper carb then? The price goes down with vac secondary carbs with chokes....they're called Super Street carbs....but you'll lose a great deal of power.

[mdross1]

My 460 has the Edlebrock Performer RPM,was running Holley 850 dbl pmp.Recently had Dan Davinci build me a 1000cfm Dbl pmp.All I can say is WOW! what a difference all around.Much leaner idle,and throttle response that's instant,drivability is pure pleasure.Good Luck

[jhv48]

Originally Posted by mpanten

where do I get the remflex gaskets?

http://catalog.remflex.com/SearchRes...=18&Search.y=7

[Excaliber]

Blykins, it is a delima! Street or track?

What if I went with TWO carbs (keep my dual four intake) for track? Then retained my current Holleys which are good for LONG tracks, street and extended highway trips, but very poor for auto cross?

The question then becomes: Is it possible to put TWO "race carbs" on the intake without interference? Will my exisiting linkage work? The "race carbs" should not be larger than 650 cfm per carb. Typical Holleys just barely have room when they are back to back on a dual four setup. Large body size carbs won't work, like the center pivot float models are way to big.

[Jamo]

Racing Cobras had single carbs/poossy street Cobras have two.

[blykins]

The only carbs that will work on a dual carb intake would be the 1850 style Holley or the 1850 style Quick Fuel. The linkage should work the same, but they will be vacuum secondary carbs (not a double accelerator pump carb) with choke horns.

I think you may be able to use a regular 4150 style mechanical secondary carb, but you would have to turn it 90° and that would require new linkages, possible fuel line re-routing, etc.

In all honesty, I think you'd get more performance and ease of maintenance from just a nice single plane single carb intake and a big double pumper sitting on top of it.

BTW, you can have the choke horns milled on the 1850 style carbs.

I never run chokes on my engines, even here in KY where we get very cold weather. I would rather just sit in the car and feather the gas for a bit until the engine gets enough heat in it to idle on its own.

[jdean]

If someone is looking for all around performance, money is better spent on other things besides dual quads. Now for looks, that is another consideration.

[Excaliber]

I've got plenty of "performance", heck I rebuilt the motor and GAVE UP horse power and STILL got enough to fry 10" inch slicks and burn up clutches every few thousand miles.

Here's what I figure. When I go racing, I take off the street tires, and put on the slicks. Unbolt the side pipes and run open headers (if DB levels aren't an issue). Then I trailer the car to the track. So, why not swap out the carbs while I'm at it? A set for race and a set for street! It need's to be a clean swap though, existing linkage and all that, easy to swap back and forth.

...I'll give that some thought. I like the dual carbs, they look cool.

OK, maybe I don't need a choke, I'm just not used to waiting for the motor to warm up.

[mpanten]

Originally Posted by blykins

The only carbs that will work on a dual carb intake would be the 1850 style Holley or the 1850 style Quick Fuel. The linkage should work the same, but they will be vacuum secondary carbs (not a double accelerator pump carb) with choke horns.

I think you may be able to use a regular 4150 style mechanical secondary carb, but you would have to turn it 90° and that would require new linkages, possible fuel line re-routing, etc.

In all honesty, I think you'd get more performance and ease of maintenance from just a nice single plane single carb intake and a big double pumper sitting on top of it.

BTW, you can have the choke horns milled on the 1850 style carbs.

I never run chokes on my engines, even here in KY where we get very cold weather. I would rather just sit in the car and feather the gas for a bit until the engine gets enough heat in it to idle on its own.

I will defer to others who know carb's. as someon who has never owned a vehicle other than a lawnmower with a carb Im just about clueless. I dont drive it in the winter or below 60 degrees so a choke would not seem to be that big of a deal.

[olddog]

I looked at the Mega Squirt. It looked way to do it yourself for me (I'm not going to solder my own boards). However the software looked to be decent to me. If you have it together and running decent (tuning issues only), you may want to see what you can do tuning it yourself. If you have a decent wide band O2 and the software to data log, give it a shot.

Another option is to rent dyno time to tune yourself. I have talked to a couple shops that will let you use a good wide band and operate the dyno for you for $100/hour. You just have to do the tuning yourself.

You might pick up a EEC IV Ford ECU and connect it up. There are several good shops here in Ohio that will chip it and dyno tune it. The 88 and older 5.0 mustang was speed density and 89-93 are massflow. I would guess you could get one at a salvage yard for a few hundred bucks.

Your going to spend big dollars changing fuel pumps and maybe lines. Then the intake and carb. Pile an ignition set up on that. A lot of wiring. Then you still have to tune all of that stuff and fix all the problems that pop up on a carb, which can be a pain too.

PS
If you have a cut up wiring harnes for the Mega Squirt and decide to go to the Ford EEC IV get the wire harness too. I think some of Mega Squirts problems is electrical noise from all the cut up, soldered up, wires.