Oil Pressure Fitting Removal.

[jhv48]

Ok, here's the deal. My oil pressure line is leaking (for the third time) at the block again, and I need to remove the brass fitting from the adaptor at the block and fix the ferrule and plastic tube again. I will be replacing this line or puting in an electric gauge in the near future, but I need to repair this one for the time being.

Now for the tough part. How are you guys getting the connector at the block unscrewed without removing the fuel pump? I can't get any type of wrench or socket on the fitting unless the pump is removed. I know someone makes a longer special socket that has one side cut out so you can slide it over the nylon tube and onto the fitting without removing the fuel pump, but where can you buy it?

If I can't find one, how do you get the fuel pump back on after removing it. I seem to have a tough time getting the lever compressed enough to slide the two bolts in to secure the fuel pump to the block.

This should be a piece of cake, but it is becoming a pain in the butt.

[cal.cheesehead]

Jim, I had a similer problem with my 351. I was able to get the fitting off and back on be removing only the fuel pump bolt next to the fitting. Then patiently.. having to reverse the 3/8 open end wrench each 1/8 turn removed and reinstalled the line. Good luck
Tom

[Got the Bug]

Jim,

That fitting at the block is a POS. The nylon hose on my SPF was some weird size, so I couldn't find the correct compression fitting at any parts store (you can probably buy it through Superformance).

Based on a recommendation from a fellow owner, I went with an AN line set up. Here's a link to all the parts you'll need and a link to the company that I bought it from.

Best way to access back of oil pressure gauge

You can mess around with it, but I'm betting it's going to leak again.

[jhv48]

I ordered the parts from BAT this afternoon.

Should have in about a week.

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by jhv48

I ordered the parts from BAT this afternoon.

Should have in about a week.

You'll be happy with that. It's kind of a pain to fish through, but it'll solve the leak once and for all. Also, you won't have to worry about a possible failure of the nylon hose in the passenger compartment.

[jhv48]

Thanks again, now, to replace the block fitting without removing the fuel pump.

[bobcowan]

What you need is a crows foot wrench.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...atchallpartial

When you get ready to fix it for good, use AN lines and fittings. If you decide to switch to an electric gauge, use a -4 line and mount the sender remotly. That makes it vibration proof, and it will last forever.

[Excaliber]

I never could get my oil pressure plastic line fitting to completely stop leaking a little oil. I changed it out to a copper line and it's never leaked a drop since!

[jhv48]

Originally Posted by bobcowan

What you need is a crows foot wrench.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...atchallpartial

When you get ready to fix it for good, use AN lines and fittings. If you decide to switch to an electric gauge, use a -4 line and mount the sender remotly. That makes it vibration proof, and it will last forever.

No wrench will fit on the coupler due to the fuel pump riding almost touching the fitting. Only a long socket with a side cutout for the nylon line will work without removing the FP.

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by jhv48

No wrench will fit on the coupler due to the fuel pump riding almost touching the fitting. Only a long socket with a side cutout for the nylon line will work without removing the FP.

If you're going to replace the line, can't you cut the nylon hose and use a long socket to remove the existing fitting? I think you may end up having to remove the fuel pump to install the new fitting anyway.

Here's a picture of the fitting at the block. I have an electric fuel pump, so there's no problems with access.

[jhv48]

I think I may have found the tool to unscrew the brass fitting at the block.

I bought a 7/16ths 12 point closed end wrench and cut a groove in the side of the head so that it would fit over the teflon tube and then slide onto the brass fitting.

Then, slowly, I could remove/install the fitting without removing the fuel pump.

[bobcowan]

Originally Posted by jhv48

I bought a 7/16ths 12 point closed end wrench and cut a groove in the side of the head so that it would fit over the teflon tube and then slide onto the brass fitting.

.

That's called a tubing wrench, or a flare nut wrench.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....e=&dir=catalog

[jhv48]

Originally Posted by bobcowan

That's called a tubing wrench, or a flare nut wrench.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....e=&dir=catalog

Won't work, they are 6 points. You need a 12 point in order to turn the fitting more than once in that space. I tried.

[Jerry Clayton]

there are 12 point tubing wrenches---

[claytonsperf]

Originally Posted by jhv48

Ok, here's the deal. My oil pressure line is leaking (for the third time) at the block again, and I need to remove the brass fitting from the adaptor at the block and fix the ferrule and plastic tube again. I will be replacing this line or puting in an electric gauge in the near future, but I need to repair this one for the time being.

Now for the tough part. How are you guys getting the connector at the block unscrewed without removing the fuel pump? I can't get any type of wrench or socket on the fitting unless the pump is removed. I know someone makes a longer special socket that has one side cut out so you can slide it over the nylon tube and onto the fitting without removing the fuel pump, but where can you buy it?

If I can't find one, how do you get the fuel pump back on after removing it. I seem to have a tough time getting the lever compressed enough to slide the two bolts in to secure the fuel pump to the block.

This should be a piece of cake, but it is becoming a pain in the butt.

The fuel-pump arm or rod rides on a smaller cam lobe so if you can't get the pump back on just turn the engine over 180 degrees that will fix that problem.

[jhv48]

This looks interesting too, but the cost is over $40.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....e=&dir=catalog

My 7/16 wrench cost $4.49 at Pep Boys. I already had the Dremmel.

[Jerry Clayton]

actually a full turn of the crank.

Claytonsperf----is your name Clayton?

Jerry

[bobcowan]

Originally Posted by jhv48

Won't work, they are 6 points. You need a 12 point in order to turn the fitting more than once in that space. I tried.

It must work, because you made your own. Nothing wrong with that, though. That's the basics for a good hot rodder. For single use or single job tools, I'll often buy a cheaper version and modify it to do what I want; just like you did. I'v got a bunch of odd looking tools. $5 and 5 minutes with a dremmel gives you a $30 tool. Good on ya!

[madmaxx]

Well, I look under my car this morning and there is a puddle of oil, Start looking around and it appeared to be the oil pressure gauge fitting. I grap the plastic line which felt loose and it FALLS out of the fitting, how it never blew out when driving is a miracle.


I agree the hydraulic line is the best solution if you have time to wait. If you do not want to wait and do not want to run a new line the only part you need is a 3/16 com x 1/8 MPT connection available at ACE hardware for $2.99. part number 41235 The UPC is 0 94857 08160 2. I could not believe how many ferrule and tubing connections ACE had!!!!

The tool you need is as described earlier 7/16 12 pt with a slot cut out, worked PERFECT, thanks JHV48. Total repair time 15 minutes. If you have your coil mounted directly above it remove for easy access.


If you have a SPF with the POS push-in fitting you are operating on borrowed time. Replace imediately. The plastic tubing is pretty stout and with the aforementioned compression fitting it is a permanent repair and you do not have to pull the old gauge or route through the firewall etc.

[Dan Semko]

I had similar issues with SPF 760 and 1568 and found an easy solution. Remove the oil fitting from the block and take it to any Mack Truck or 18 wheeler garage/repair shop. They have the exact compression fitting with an integrated brass sleeve for the compression fitting around the plastic line. They run about $3.