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Old 05-30-2010, 04:49 PM
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Default Lifting using a floor jack

This one may be simple, is there any problem using a floor jack positioned at the weight midpoint to raise the entire side at one time? The SPF book shows the entire frame as possible jacking points. I have access to a lift, but not here at home! Since I'm dealing with a fiberglass body, I don't want to get it wrong!!

Thanks!
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Old 05-30-2010, 04:54 PM
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I don't think there is an issue. In fact, I recall a promotional clip, showing doing just what you are talking about, to show how rigid a SPF frame is, and still allowing the doors to open and close without any binding or interference from frame flex. I'd say go for it!

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Old 05-30-2010, 05:22 PM
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I have a SPF, and I always jack it up from the side.

Position the jack right at the transition point of the frame. This is approximately where the front of the door is.
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Old 05-30-2010, 09:30 PM
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Thanks, you guys confirmed my initial thought! I'll proceed accordingly!!
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Old 05-30-2010, 09:37 PM
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I'm curious. Should you open both doors before adding weight to the jack? Seems that would prevent any untoward binding on the doors.
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Old 05-30-2010, 11:01 PM
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I had a vette and was told to open the doors prior to jacking up the car, I do still with my SPF
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Old 05-31-2010, 07:23 AM
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If it can't handle the stress, I would not want that car.
Yes,.... close the doors on a glass body.
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Old 05-31-2010, 07:49 AM
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I have opened and closed the doors while it's on a jack. The SPF frame is strong enough it does not make a difference.

And please remember that is just a comment regarding the SPF. I'm not commenting one way or the other in regard to other manufacturers.
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Old 06-01-2010, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FUNFER2 View Post
If it can't handle the stress, I would not want that car.
Yes,.... close the doors on a glass body.
I cannot imagine a Cobra frame flexing like that and it still being a good road car.My CMC car certainly has a heavy frame.
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Old 06-01-2010, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
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I cannot imagine a Cobra frame flexing like that and it still being a good road car.My CMC car certainly has a heavy frame.
You're kidding me. lol

I've had my own body shop for years. Have you ever seen or heard what happens to a convertible, with a FULL frame, that's in for major repair or a restoration, and you remove the doors and others panels, little or MAJOR shifting can and will happen. That's why you ALWAYS,....weld in support cross beams.

Why with a glass cobra, would you think differently ?

I've even see drags cars with a much stronger support system in the frame, full cages and front sub connectors being used, and they also flex. Even Ferries ! (don't think so, as a dealer or owner)

With my experience in this field, you can believe me or not, that's your proactive buddy.

Will it hurt the body, probably not but, you can get stress cracks and star points. When I have mine on my 4-post lift, I open the doors, no problem but, I don't leave them open. If the body is glued/bonded down, you'll have a lesser chance. If it's bolted, you will have some deflection being glass. Lift the car on the frame, open the doors the see how the latch goes into the striker post, if it closes with no problem, don't worry about it unless you plan on having it up with the doors open, for say a few days to a week.

I have and like my Lone Star and it is among the heaviest Cobra on the market at $2,800 lbs.with two occupant's and full of fuel. It's frame is very heavy and strong and the body is the thickest I've seen. When I have it up on my 4-post lift, I often open the doors but, when done I shut them and can leave it suspended for weeks with no issues. I would NOT, leave them open for that long of a period.

I'm a body man and car builder as a profession, and have seen this happen, but it's your call my friend.
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Last edited by FUNFER2; 06-01-2010 at 10:48 AM..
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