SPF loosing its clutch pedal?

[PHM]

I went out for a ride yesterday and started loosing the clutch engagement point. I'm sure it's not the actual clutch but something with the slave cilinder. I only had a minute to check it out last night but the pedal has slop in it at the top and i have be having a problem with finding a minut light oil leak. I am assuming now that it must be clutch fluid leaking. I can barly see under the fender but have that resivior on the fire wall. I thought that was for the brakes though because it says willwood on the cap. If anyone has had this problem and knows how to fix it i would appreciate it. I was hoping to go to a show this weekend and unfortunatly don't have much time to work on the car. This is the 1st time i have ever had a problem with the car.

[flipscobra]

The clutch master cyclinder is behind the brake MC to get to it you have to take wheel off an you will see a cover in the wheel well take it off an there will be the clutch MC. Make sure you have an Oring on the resavior where it connects to the MC, mine didn't an was sucking air there. If thats okay check your slave cyclinder, since I fixed mine I have not had anymore trouble Good Luck

[PHM]

Is there any thing else i can try 1st? This is the 1st time i've had a problem in 3 years and i would like to avoid taking off the rims because i don't have the proper tools to put the wire ties back on.

[Mark IV]

Clutch MC is on the firewall in front of the driver, the brake MC is under the left fender. You either have:

1. A leak in the line to the slave cylinder from the MC, could be at a fitting, junction, etc. Look for a wet spot
   
   2. A bad MC or slave cylinder.

Is the fluid level on the MC down? Try bleeding the system and see if the clutch action improves. I assume (Yeah, I know, big mistake) that you do not have a hydraulic throw-out bearing that is internal to the bellhousing...they tend to be whole 'nuther kettle of fish.

[kayakjack]

I had a very similar situation within the last year. My wife and I were on a mountain drive and I started having problems with the clutch. I could not get it to disengage properly. Hard to shift. I thought I was going to have to get it towed.

When I got it home I flushed the old clutch fluid out and replaced it. That fixed it - everything was perfect.

Then I started seeing a leak of clutch fluid under the car. It was coming from the slave cylinder. I replaced that. Everything is perfect now.

Oh yeah, I found a small leak in the O-ring on the remote clutch fluid reservoir. I adjusted it a little with a wrench. Leak gone.

I don't know what kind of motor/clutch/trans you have. Mine is a 351 Windsor with a Tremec 3550. Slave cylinders for this are a common, cheap item at NAPA.

I will start changing the fluid regularly. I don't think it lasts long in these cars with the all the heat.

Jack

[PHM]

Thanks guys! Yes the level is a little low and i'm going to top that off and bleed it out. I think its a leak in the MC because i keep everythink spotless and the slave cylinder is as clean as a whistle. I will give it a try tonight and let you know.

[kayakjack]

Since the slave is not leaking - before you conclude it is the clutch master cylinder leaking--- have a look at the rubber hose between the clutch fluid remote reservior and the master cylinder. Is it dry? If it is damp with fluid, the problem may well be the remote. If so, it may well be the O-ring on the remote.

Jack

[danw]

I have a Wilwood slave cylinder for my clutch, and the first "incident" with the newly-purchased Cobra was losing the clutch pedal completely as I was blissfully cruising down the street. As you can find via various threads on this site and others, this particular slave cylinder has an end cap that is prone to unscrewing itself under normal operating conditions. When this occurs, you lose clutch pedal, first gradually then abruptly (and probably also the return spring out of the slave cylinder).

If yours is the same design and the cap has started to loosen, that would explain the change in the "feel" of the clutch. I used Loctite 242 thread locker when I put mine back together and it hasn't budged since.

[flipscobra]

Mark IV evidently you have not looked at your Wilwood clutch master cyclinder or you would have seen the resavior I was talking about. Mine a MC on the firewall to that to fill the remote under the fender.

[Mark IV]

Originally Posted by flipscobra

Mark IV evidently you have not looked at your Wilwood clutch master cyclinder or you would have seen the resavior I was talking about. Mine a MC on the firewall to that to fill the remote under the fender.

Poor posting on my part, yes, the MC reservior is on the firewall, the MC is under the fender. I did not elaborate correctly (as my wife often reminds me....)

[PANAVIA]

Pictures would help - remember macro mode. ---!!!

Wilwood is usually good stuff, but it (like any other hydraulic ) hates to sit. -- maybe you have condensation in the system >?

when was the last time you flushed the hyd fluid in the car - en toto.>?

Steve

[PHM]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I think i am going to just add to the resivior and bleed it out then hopefully i can find the problem.
I was told to use DOT#3 for fluid is this correct?????

[kayakjack]

DOT 3 is OK. DOT 4 is better.

My personal preference is ATE Super Blue...

http://tinyurl.com/29fv2bw

It is blue, so when blue fluid is expelled you know the system has been replenished. Whatever you use I would be sure to get all the old fluid out of the system. That may be the root of your clutch problems.

Jack

[Bob In Ct]

DOT 4 is better for temperature issues (racing) but 3 is better for the street since it will tolerate higher levels of moisture. If you're not going to change it regularly use DOT 3.

bob