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11-24-2010, 08:48 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,001
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Not Ranked
I'll say!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul F
Grumpy old men.....
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I'm with you, Paul. That Chas needs to get a life....  |
11-24-2010, 08:57 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bartlett,
Ill
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett-Morrison LS1
Posts: 2,448
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Not Ranked
Sooooo Patrick
what kind of locknuts are on your engine mounts? or bell housing????
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11-24-2010, 08:58 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,001
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton
Sooooo Patrick
what kind of locknuts are on your engine mounts? or bell housing????
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None, on either. |
11-24-2010, 09:11 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bartlett,
Ill
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett-Morrison LS1
Posts: 2,448
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Not Ranked
you need to correct the washers on the bolts in your pressure plate and also why aren't you using the dowel pins for where the pp joins the flywheel??
And your quick jacks
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11-24-2010, 09:17 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hillsboro,
OR
Cobra Make, Engine: Scratch built CSX style frame, Carbon fiber body, 393 Stroker, T-bird IRS, T5
Posts: 1,623
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Not Ranked
Okay, so what is everyone using is places where you use a bolt threaded into a threaded hub where obviously a lock nut can't be used? A belleville washer?
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11-24-2010, 09:19 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,001
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton
you need to correct the washers on the bolts in your pressure plate and also why aren't you using the dowel pins for where the pp joins the flywheel??
And your quick jacks
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My overpriced Centerforce aluminum flywheel had no dowels -- loctited ARP shouldered bolts though. I do use the split lock washers on the starter motor and, as you can see from the photo, I have to retighten them ever few months.
Last edited by patrickt; 10-25-2016 at 08:51 AM..
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11-24-2010, 09:31 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,078
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
I'm with you, Paul. That Chas needs to get a life.... |
Eleven thousand eight hundred and ninety five posts and I need to get a life?
So Paul, we relics should be eternally grateful that our boy here relentlessly educates whippersnappers like you?
__________________
Chas.
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11-24-2010, 09:45 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,001
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton
And your quick jacks
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Surely you're not suggesting that the QJ nuts should go inward? |
11-24-2010, 10:53 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Cobra Make, Engine: KMP 539, a Ton of Aluminum
Posts: 9,591
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Not Ranked
Two pages so far on lock washers? 
What is this world coming to?   |
11-24-2010, 11:07 AM
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Full Blown Member
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Cobra Make, Engine: KMP 427 S/C, Twin Paxton 511 FE
Posts: 2,594
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Not Ranked
Look, let's just safety wire it, spot weld the lock washer under a nylon locking nut, JB Weld a small square of mirror on it and place an energy efficient spotlight on it. Simple.
__________________
rodneym
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11-24-2010, 11:14 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Driftwood,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: Contemporary Cobra, 427 side oiler
Posts: 1,850
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Not Ranked
This thread needs some "Threadlocker," and I ain't talking the stuff in the red tube. |
11-24-2010, 11:27 AM
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Full Blown Member
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Cobra Make, Engine: KMP 427 S/C, Twin Paxton 511 FE
Posts: 2,594
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Not Ranked
__________________
rodneym
Last edited by rodneym; 11-24-2010 at 11:35 AM..
Reason: my internal spell check is much slower than my fingers
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11-24-2010, 12:22 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Gore. New Zealand.,
SI
Cobra Make, Engine: DIY Coupe, F/T ,MkIV.
Posts: 808
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Not Ranked
Try your local hardware shops for a product called 'Nordlock', two piece 'ramped' & 'serrated' washer, only good for RH threads, works great on headers, manifolds, bell housings. Needs a couple of rechecks when used in alloy applications as serrations tend to 'bite' into the softer alloy.... might be just what you need on those 'FE' intakes to keep the bolt clamp pressure up.
__________________
Jac Mac
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11-24-2010, 12:28 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,078
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jac Mac
Try your local hardware shops for a product called 'Nordlock', two piece 'ramped' & 'serrated' washer, only good for RH threads, works great on headers, manifolds, bell housings.
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Thanks Jac for something constructive out of this. 
__________________
Chas.
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11-24-2010, 12:44 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Cobra Make, Engine: KMP 539, a Ton of Aluminum
Posts: 9,591
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Not Ranked
I'm betting I'll get slammed for this, but is this option?
http://www.stage8.com/ |
11-24-2010, 12:47 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,001
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by RodKnock
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I've never used them -- but the guys on the PowerBlock, Stacey David's shows, Truck U, etc., speak highly of them. But, they could be paid to do that, I don't know. |
11-24-2010, 01:31 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Ashburton, New Zealand,
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Cobra Make, Engine: UK Ram SC. KC-Yates 373, Jerico 5 speed.
Posts: 1,240
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Not Ranked
Lock Washers are useless!
Found this information
Quote US Navy:
Naval Ships' Technical Manual, Chapter 75:
"Although lockwashers may be encountered, using the flat washers with selflocking nuts, self-locking fasteners, self-locking inserts, or thread sealants such as MIL-S-22473 anaerobic compounds is preferable.
A flat washer is used for many purposes, some proper and some not. The two most common proper purposes are:
1. To distribute the pressure of the nut or bolt evenly over the part being secured, reducing the chance of damage thereto, and
2. To provide a smooth surface for the nut or bolt to bear on, making it less likely to loosen as a result of an uneven fastening surface.
Bottom line use flatwashers and if not sure or the part is inaccessible use the correct thread lock and as mentioned Loctite Blue or medium strength is generally sufficient for general automotive applications, if you want to get it apart. For the newcomer Dont use Loctite 262 on your knock off wheel threads or any thread lock for that matter as the larger the thread the worse the problem can become to undo!
__________________
A J. Newton
The 1960's rocked!
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11-24-2010, 01:57 PM
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Senior ClubCobra Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Northern,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: LA Exotics
Posts: 1,037
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas
Eleven thousand eight hundred and ninety five posts and I need to get a life?
So Paul, we relics should be eternally grateful that our boy here relentlessly educates whippersnappers like you?
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Chas,
You can do as you like with Patrick. He doesn't seem to mind. |
11-24-2010, 02:13 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,001
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul F
You can do as you like with Patrick. He doesn't seem to mind.
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Patrick wears his heart on his sleeve. The cruel, caustic commentaries by Chas cuts him to the quick.  |
11-24-2010, 02:21 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,078
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul F
Chas,
You can do as you like with Patrick. He doesn't seem to mind.
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Sigh.... You are correct-it only glorifies him more. 
But every hamlet needs it's Village Idiot. (Wish we had a VI smiley guy).
__________________
Chas.
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