Part # for Centerforce Clutch and Pressure Plate..Help

[Pman1961]

Well I've removed my hood, picked up my engine hoist, took lots of pictures, drained fluids, etc. Oh yes, the engine tranny swap has begun for SPO 2423. Could someone provide me the part numbers for the Centerforce dual friction clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing and pilot bearing for a early Ford 351w block stroked to 408 supporting 550+ horsepower at the crank? Transmission is a TKO 600. I tried using the technical support for centerforce via email with no response. There are so many part numbers and types and I want to get the correct components. Would you recommend the 10.4" or 11" diameter recommended? I'm open to other clutch packages if they have had a good experience. Car will not be tracked. I just want the car to be a bit nasty Thanks

[bobcowan]

This is the one I use. It has the 26 spline disc. I'm making well over 500hp, track it a lot, and the clutch can certainly handle the abuse. But, it's also very easy to drive on the street in traffic

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTF-DF161057/

[Pman1961]

Thank you Bobcowan. That's what I'm looking for in a clutch. Take the abuse and light on the pedal. Howabout the throwout bearing. Is there a gazillion of these or pretty much one for the clutch assembly? I don't trust a lot of the guys in the tech support reading from a catalog.

[blykins]

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[undy]

...agree with Brent here. I've had more problems with POS Centerfarce clutches then all the other clutch MFRs combined x 3.

Centerforce = crap.

[blykins]

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[RICK LAKE]

Pman1961 Pman IF you are going to just drive on the street without alot of burnouts, a stock 11" will work fine. You have to remember that pressure plates are setup for total applied clutch pressures to the disc. You didn't say what tires you are running and this is another thing not taking into account. Your clutch is a wearout ideam and protect the drivetrain. The higher the pressure the heavier the pedal. If you go with a heavyduty clutch with a 2,400- 2,600 pressure plate, this will be all you need. You can buy just certain pieces if you want. You can buy a 11" pressure plate and get the correct disc for your trans. What is the spline and diameter of the input shaft? Are you going to replace the flywheel or have it resurfaced? If it is resurfaced make sure the pressure plate bolts don't hit the backing plate of the motor. I have seen this. I would tell you to go with either a Mcleod or Ram clutch. If money was not an issue, a twin disc would be the way to go and end any problems of a clutch setup. Light pedal, 7-900HP range, and may also give you a quicker engine responce. Rick L. Ps Centerforce loader clutches SUCK. I had problems with them and cost over $6,000.00 to correct the problem. I was one of the first to come out and tell CC memebers if you buy a centerforce setup to remove the ring and weights. I have run a gold setup without weights of 14 years and have only changed the disc. This is a car with 95% track time only.

[Roscoe]

My A&C is over 10 years old with over 25k miles and some open track time. Below is my 351w setup which I've never had a problem with.

Centerforce steel billet flywheel 168 tooth
Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
Tilton Hydraulic Throwout Bearing
Lakewood Bellhousing
Powermaster Hitachi type starter
Tremec 5 speed

Roscoe

[CobraEd]

I would use RAM.

http://www.ramclutches.com/


.

[bobcowan]

I guess I'm the lucky one. I'v been using centerforce for years with no problems at all. It works so good, I'm afraid to try anything differant. I think my pressure plate was made by Valeo.

[joyridin']

My Centerforce works well also, but I would never buy one. My brother works at Luk. Seems like a cheap way to make a supposed high performance clutch. They all come off the same stamping line.

[Pman1961]

I appreciate all the responses. The car currently has the original Yokohama Avids. When these wear I'm considering the Mickey Thompsons. I intend to replace the flywheel with a new SFI item. I did have a Centerforce Clutch in a early model Vette with a 388 stroker and did well. However, after reading these posts and some reviews of various clutches I'm going to contact Brent Lykins and try his recommendations. Thanks again!

[Snakebit]

Go with McLeod!

[blykins]

Originally Posted by joyridin'

My Centerforce works well also, but I would never buy one. My brother works at Luk. Seems like a cheap way to make a supposed high performance clutch. They all come off the same stamping line.

There's really not that many pressure plate manufacturers in the US....LUK and Valeo provide a lot for different manufacturers. Valeo makes most of the pressure plates for McLeod and possibly RAM.

However, it's what you do with the pressure plate that matters. If you find the right one with the right static pressure, then combine it with the correct disc material for your application, you won't have any issues. The problem with the Centerforce stuff is that their counterweight system doesn't always work and the discs they use are nothing special.

[madmaxx]

Laughing my A$$ off on what Blykins wrote

"If you're using a flywheel with a 10.5" pattern, the equivilent RAM clutch kit for your particular application is $319 + shipping, which includes a diaphragm pressure plate, disc, throw out bearing, and alignment tool."

My buddies 1996 Porshe 911 non-turbo just bought a pressure plate and throwout bearing and friction element for $1200!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!

That is what I love about Cobra replica's the parts are as close to free as you can get!!!

[patrickt]

I think Brent's real issue is that Centerforce stuff is just overpriced. A lot of us remove the little weights, and clamping forces really aren't much of an issue because our rear wheels break loose anyway. I think if the Centerforce stuff was half the price (and didn't have the hoaky weights) Brent might speak differently.

[blykins]

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[patrickt]

Originally Posted by blykins

The guys with the big horsepower cars know that the C/F stuff simply doesn't cut the mustard.

But if your clutch holds strong enough so that the adhesion that your tires have are the weakest point in the equation, what good is additional holding strength (assuming you don't upgrade your back tires)? Even if I added an additional 200HP to my engine, my clutch would still hold just as well because the tires are the weakest points (Yoko 295-50-15). Is this not right?

[blykins]

Will your car break traction in every gear?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by blykins

Will your car break traction in every gear?

I have never broken them loose over 100, but I think my third to fourth shift at 105 would break them loose if I was so inclined.