tin-man needs to ask this question.....

[tin-man]

Hopefully, I'll be getting my car in early March and prior to taking delivery it will have been "around the block" a few times to sort out and identify any items that needed to be tightened or fixed because they vibrated loose. I requested this service be performed after several CC members suggested this be done. So as a follow on to this subject my question is :does anyone have a check list or schematic of all the major items that a novice, like me, should check, tighten and verify before, a) taking the beast for a regular "spin" and b), after putting several hundred miles on it?

All advice will be very much appreciated because it will most certainly contribute to my safety and well being and will absolutely give me an edge against any "incidents" that could happen due to my inexperience in taking care of a Cobra.

With respect, John, AKA, tin-man

[JBCOBRA]

Don't wear a belt when you are tinkering on it

[twobjshelbys]

Watch for snake bites. I didn't get mine getting in and out of the car, I got it when I was leaning over the fender.

[rodneym]

tin-man,
It seems like air cleaners tends to loosen quickly so keep an eye on it.
Also, keep you valve covers torqued up to about 10 lbs so you won't get seepage.
Check all the hose connections and look for leaks.
Try to move your knockoffs by hand before you go for a drive. It may take a while to finally trust a big nut that holds on your wheel.
Of course you should get under the car and check the nuts. There should be painted stripes across the nuts, washers and frame so you can see if one came loose.
Erick could also run down some major ones to look out for since he's installed countless SPF's.

[bobcowan]

There's really no check list, because you're going to check everything. Go over every inch of the car, in an order that makes sense to you. Maybe start with the suspenion at each corner. Then go down the middle from underneath, and then from above.

It might make sense to you to go over the fuel system seperatly, or follow the wiring seperatly. Whatever makes the most sene to you

[N2VENOM]

This is a important thread. It's about time we came up with a comprehensive checklist. Rodnym, you have my vote to compile this information that will be beneficial to all. You may even save a life or two...
Here's mine. Make sure your spinners are tight and wired. I lost a wheel once!

[Bill Wells]

plan on a regular 'nuts and bolts' party - put it on a lift and check/tighten every nut and bolt you see . same everwhere else ........do it several times for first several hundred miles - then on a regular basis after that .

After all is OK , then 'paint mark ' all nuts and bolts where possible when against the frame or other surface- that way you can always easily give it a visual eyeball to see if something is no longer lined up right.

lots of vibrations and twisting in these lethal weapons, alll trying to loosen nuts and bolts . Bill

[tcrist]

One thing to do on all of these is to look into changing all hex nuts that use lock washers to pinch nuts if at all possible.

Check out the distorted thread hex lock nut

http://www.mcmaster.com/#right-hand-...cknuts/=asy8y1

[patrickt]

Most things that will go wrong with your Cobra (but not all) will give you a little advance notice. It might be a new sound, a new smell, or something will "feel different." Pay attention. At first, just concentrate on driving the car -- you won't be able to notice something out of whack unless it's literally hanging off the car, or there's a puddle under the car, or the car runs like crap. In time though you will learn how every little thing feels, and smells, on your car. You'll be able to tell how your car feels differently when it is cold or hot (meaning the car, not just the engine... like the clutch, for instance). You'll spot even slightly different noises, rpm changes at idle, a whiff of coolant, a slight lag when you turn the key, a sputter under acceleration, you'll even be able to tell how your car behaves differently when it has a full tank of gas versus only a few gallons. Just give it time and pay attention to everything. Your car will never act randomly. Everything it does will mean something, and in time, it'll just jump right out at you. You might not know what it means, but you'll know that it's new and that you need to figure out why it's doing that.

[Double Venom]

Here's one I have never seen mentioned- "U-Bolts/Nuts" on the driveshaft! Many annoying vibrations can be tracked down to these nuts being not torqued evenly or simply loose!
DV

[strictlypersonl]

One little trick: Get the car up to speed (~30mph) on a smooth road and cut the engine with the trans in neutral. Do some turning and braking, listening for odd noises and clunks.

Another hint: Re-torque the exhaust bolts after the engine first warms up, then again after the first 50 miles.

For some reason, I find that if I "sleep on it" after an assembly or design process (and before I physically test something), I will come up with things that I have forgotten.

[LMH]

Drive pins on the wheel adapters should be checked after it's first drive IMO. Assuming it had adapters.

Most important though is take care driving it and get to know the car a little at a time. Don't do any 'spirited' drivng till you are familiar with it. It can get away from you quickly if you're not.
Larry

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by LMH

Drive pins on the wheel adapters should be checked after it's first drive IMO. Assuming it had adapters.

Considering the six figure chunk of change tinman is dropping on this little toy, you would think it would have six pin one-piece hubs, but I don't believe it does. The adaptor pin cracking/loosening issue is a real one and it's good you flagged it.

[STL Mark]

Assuming you may not be preforming your own maintenance - find a close local shop for oil changes, etc. Pay the guy and extra hour of labor and do a full car nut and bolt check (on a lift) at every oil change/visit. Well worth the money. Pay close attention to all half shaft bolts, suspension bolts and brake bolts. Check every bolt you can reach. Change the fuel filter once a year. Check the timing often, and check the dizzy gear and springs every year. Also make sure you are making enough vacuum to run your brakes.

[madmaxx]

1) Brake Caliper bolts
2) Half shaft bolts/nuts
3)Bellhousing bolts
4) drive shaft bolts/nuts
5) grease ball joints
6) Probably need to tighten belts after a couple hundred miles if they squel
7) Retorque intake manifold bolts, exhaust header bolts, valve cover, water pump, distributor hold down.
8) if spinners not saftey wired put a black mark on spinner and wheel so you can visually check if they have moved.
9) you will need to do #7 every 500 miles until 1500 miles.
10) If you get the car delivered with the plastic oil line to oil gaugeDO NOT ACCEPT DELIVERY get the braided line. I replaced mine and now I have no dripped any oil in a month from the engine, a first.

[rodneym]

Thanks for the vote Darren but I can barely manage one thread, and we'll see how that goes. Plus I'm gonna do something a bit excessive to my KMP and I'll post that as it developes.

John, you've got a lot of things to go off of now. Luckily it's all pretty simple. I haven't turned a wrench since my 78 Chevette, albeit a ton of wrenching on that pos. It'll come back to you. Ask for help for things a little out of your reach and hire a respected pro for surgeries.

[tin-man]

Originally Posted by rodneym

Thanks for the vote Darren but I can barely manage one thread, and we'll see how that goes. Plus I'm gonna do something a bit excessive to my KMP and I'll post that as it developes.

John, you've got a lot of things to go off of now. Luckily it's all pretty simple. I haven't turned a wrench since my 78 Chevette, albeit a ton of wrenching on that pos. It'll come back to you. Ask for help for things a little out of your reach and hire a respected pro for surgeries.

I really appreciate everyone taking their time to respond to my question and I am of the opinion this is a very worthwhile post in that all the comments and suggestions will provide insight for many members who like me are new owners since the Cobra is unlike any other car and arguably is a life changing experience.

These comments and suggestions on what should be a standard practice procedure for newbies and a heads up for all those folks considering pulling the trigger, as something to consider, will IMHO as N2VENOM suggested " save a life or two", and certainly mine, so please keep these suggestions coming.

Thanks to all.

John, AKA, tin-man

[Keithc8]

A little loctite in places does not hurt. Any car that will get ran like these cars need checking over from time to time and it seems a little more when new. Double check all of the radiator hoses because they need to be tight and we like to run two on the end of each hose for extra clamping force. Water under one of these cars at speeds is no good and also will make a mess of your engine compartment. You have been given most all of the things that you can check and should. Take your time and you will find most of it to be ok but every now and then you find one missed, even by the best.

Good luck, Keith

[Excaliber]

I broke a fan belt once. It was to skinny, sat low in the pulley, slipped a lot. An intake bolt that holds down the throttle linkage came loose, no throttle, fixed it with my shoe string to stagger back to the pitts (race day of all things). The MSD dist went south on me. Alternator quit. Went through a bunch of starters until I figured out I had the wrong flywheel ring gear tooth count. I've lost count on the number of clutches. Oh, almost forgot the big one, roller lifter broke, wiped out the cam, resulted in a major engine overhaul. Electric fuel pump quit, replaced it. I've been towed (flat bed) several times over the years. Replaced the top loader with a TKO600, I guess it's OK. But I kind of miss the top loader because the gear ratio's are superior to the TKO (which are to low for my taste). Replaced the leaking pinion seal (nut came loose). Had a bad vibration, rear flange drive shaft bolts were loose. Maybe related to the leaking pinion seal problem? I'm on my third set of carbs and still not happy, it's always SOMETHING with carbs (pffft, like EFI is better, NOT)! Lost count of the rear tires, they wear out much faster than the front ones. Blew a head gasket about 10,000 miles in on the new motor. Went through a LOT of exhaust manifold gaskets blowing out, tried everything, nothing would hold. THEN, found "Remflex", done! I don't even retorque the bolts, I'm talking DONE, no leaks, ever. Jag rear outter hub axles got loose, had to "shim" and freshen up the internals. I think I finally got the shocks dialed in, ride hieght and rebound adjustment and such. That took a couple of years and a lot of track work to figure out. Might be worth it to get something like that done by a professional, sure makes a big difference and you won't loose a couple of years like I did! Bushings here and there have been replaced. I prefer synthetic brake fluid, even though I do track the car and would like something better. But synthetic is safe for the paint and I'm kind of a slob who might spill some brake fluid on the paint! Broken wire on the fuel gauge, fixed that. Seems like there is no end to the maintenance that needs to be done. Tighten, adjust, replace. Oh, CORK valve cover gaskets for me. Some folks like the rubber, not me. I use new cork everytime I have the valve covers off, zero leaks. Solid flat tappet so I need to check adjustment from time to time. Heres a tip, if the valves actually NEED very much adjustment, beyond a few thousands, something is likely wrong. The valves should be, for the most part, "set it and forget it".

Infineon, SAAC 35. Ran the heck out of that motor, no mercy! Slamming the gears, shifting at 6400-6500, oh yeah, I was ON it hard. Motor never missed a beat, ran like a champ for three hard days. Old school Le Mans rods, 428 crank, side oiler block, iron heads (from 1964), built like it was "back in the day" with old school parts. They still rock, they still get the job done. Side oilers, built right, are dam solid and reliable motors.

...and it's pretty darn quick too!