AC Cobra Hardtops

[SoTxButler]

And, to expand on MrMustang's comment, not all tops will fit over the roll bar. Sometimes the bars are too tall and have to be modified. My top will fit a Butler and Arntz and maybe others...just don't know till one does some fitting.

Not only does the top need to fit the rear fenders but the windshield angle is critical and most often needs to be modified to fit just right.

[mr bruce]

here's a thread with some detailed pictures of my LeMans top installed on Allen B's, ErA- LeMans Hardtop for ERA

[mr bruce]

LeMans top at speed- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qsM-SdAJ9Pk

[Jimeg]

Originally Posted by Bryan Anderson

I have the tops In stock so it would just be a matter of a few days to make a crate and ship we get 1500 for a top with rear window and all the mounting hardware, 1750 uif you want the side curtains

Hey Bryan, I have a BDR and I'm interested as well. I'm looking for a finished top ( just needs paint) with sliding windows like a superformance or the spring up type that you see the chaps in the UK with. All to fit a BDR.

Kindly provide more info such as; is the rear window glass or plexi, is the top complete with hardware etc' ....

Thanks, Jim

[Fullchat289]

Originally Posted by Gene_J

Mr Bruce,

Does your hardtop come with all the fittings (less side curtains) and weatherstripping?

How leak proof is the windshield area?

What windshield angle does it fit best?

Which wheel base replica (90-94-96) will it fit most securely?

How do you handle the "dead air" in the back?

How soon can one be ready to go?

Thanks,
Gene

Gene:

Most of your questions concerning Bruce's top can be answered in this thread:

LeMans Hardtop for ERA

To seal the top across the top of the windscreen frame, I used a piece of foam rubber that most folks use to seal their pick-up truck caps to the top of the bed. Bruce constructs the top such that it "cups" the windscreen across the top and the foam rubber works perfectly. I took a 1300mi trip down to Tennessee after installing Bruce's top with 1/3 of the return trip in driving rain on the interstate and had no issues. I wasn't running side screens, though and very little rain made it into the passenger compartment.

My car is a 90" wheel base car. My windshield angle is at 45 degrees, and the dead air in the back is not really an issue. For high-speed runs, I did drill some holes in the rear of the screen as per cars running in Europe in the Masters.

- Allen.

[Gene_J]

Fullchat289

Do you know why they cut holes in the rear window and Shelby didn't?

Gene

[Silverback51]

Originally Posted by Gene_J

Fullchat289

Do you know why they cut holes in the rear window and Shelby didn't?

Gene

Are you ever going to answer the question regarding what car you have?????

[Fullchat289]

Originally Posted by Gene_J

Fullchat289

Do you know why they cut holes in the rear window and Shelby didn't?

Gene

Gene:

I'm not sure entirely..could be a couple of reasons. Shelby/AC only ran the top originally on two cars, but the indents on the sides of the top were originally cut open, I believe, to provide a bit of pressure relief. I copied what the guys are doing who run the Master's Series in Europe. Many of those guys run some sort of holes in the rear screen to help with releasing pressure from the cavity. Personally, I think it looks "racecar"...so that's my main reasoning.

- Allen.

[Gene_J]

Oooops Sorry, it's a Shell Valley.

[Gene_J]

Thank you one and all, for your valued input, insights and knowledge.

I wanted to let you know, I invited some old colleagues and friends over last Sunday to an AC Cobra hardtop afternoon.

It was kind of an eclectic combination of aerospace engineers, designers, fabricators and even a fellow who raced against Cobras in the late 60s and early 70s on the Western circuit. Many of these guys are my age so the car brought back fond memories for them as well.

After getting past the “Suicide Machine” and “Gee, I forgot what a car looked like with no safety equipment.” comments and a case of beer, the Geriatric Society sat down and went to work.

1. The first tenet was that the AC Cobra is an iconic Anglo-American classic and remains a legend today . . . can’t touch the car when it comes to aerodynamics or aesthetics.

2. I don’t like driving in a blast furnace. When you get away from the ocean here, it is ungodly hot during the summer. Going barefooted in the summer can get you a really bad case of 2nd degree burns.

3. I don’t like skin cancer. Already being on a first name basis with my Dermatologist should give you an idea of how frequent my visits are.

4. I want to maintain the car’s interior.

5. I want to drive this little gem year around. So that means heating, air conditioning and a water-tight seal. It also means a rear window that doesn’t fog-up or get covered by frost in the mountains during the winter.

6. But the big deal is, I have the same problem as the fellow in the $400.00 signal orange racing suit.






7. The hardtop must be very light and easy to put on and take off in a matter of minutes.

8. And last, but perhaps most importantly how the top fastens. Years ago on a very straight road, WHERE I WAS ALL ALONE I wanted to make up travel time. Before I knew what happened, the third party aftermarket hardtop separated. So if you have the background and crunch the numbers you’ll be surprised to discover how much force can be exerted on mounting hardware.


So that’s where we started. This evening when I have time, I’ll post a note explaining the solution . . . which to a few hopefully, will be interesting.

Gene

[RET_COP]

Gene,
I don't feel any pressure buildup in the compartment, ,maybe its because of the wing windows. My top is fastened with bolts and nuts [behind the doors and in the trunk area. 5/16 bolts. Its also fastened at the upper windshield in two places. The clips grab the steel molding and clip back to a positive locking system. I do worry about this area as a weak point but I don't know how much force is generated just under the small lip at the top of the windshield. I have been 100mph with no indications of any problems. I normally drive in the 70s but a 20 mph headwind and now its 90s.
Also I'm 6'2" and I can tell you that you need a strong left quad and knee and the Forward brace roll bar helps alot getting in!!!!!
I was at a car show in Dudley MA. (elk's club sponsored). I was directed to the cobra area and as I approached the parking spot there was another replica (scarlet Red with White stripes) with an identical Hard Top!!! I never thought that would happen. We talked all afternoon.
Lou

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by SoTxButler

And, to expand on MrMustang's comment, not all tops will fit over the roll bar. Sometimes the bars are too tall and have to be modified. My top will fit a Butler and Arntz and maybe others...just don't know till one does some fitting.

Not only does the top need to fit the rear fenders but the windshield angle is critical and most often needs to be modified to fit just right.

Do you know if one has been fit to an ERA???

[SoTxButler]

DanEC.....I don't think it has been fitted on an ERA, but the body shape is similar. If you are coming to the Texas Meet in San Marcos, we can see if it would fit your car.

The top comes off very easy...four clips...it can be off in 15 seconds with 2 people.

[Gene_J]

Lou,

Thank you for taking the time to pass that information along.

As I hang my head in shame, I was driving my sister's E series V12 while visiting her nearly forty years ago. I was going significantly faster than 90mph. In fact the detachment was so violent. it tore one of the pins out of the aluminum body.

Geez, now I worry about tire rating and if the tires are filled with nitrogen, plus suspension issues just to name a few. Guess I realize I am mortal.

Thanks again for your input Lou.

Gene

[Gene_J]

This is a continuation of the following post regarding Cobra hardtops: AC Cobra Hardtops


We looked at seven hardtops. A number of these tops are “available” in this country and evaluated the practicality and functionality of all seven relative to what I wanted. As you will recall I want a top that is:

1. Light and easy to install and remove
2. Seals extremely well
3. Is stylish
4. Won’t detach unexpectedly
5. Something that is made for cold weather as well as moderate and hot temperatures
6. It would be nice to have a top constructed and cured to military standards

What follows is not a condemnation or endorsement of any product as all seven are very good hardtops. And as we all know, preference is ultimately a matter of individual choice.




This top is similar to the Shell Valley top. The rear window is wrap-around plastic and offers good visibility which is a nice safety feature. However, in the Southwest the plastic must be coated/treated to survive the Southwest climate for any length of time. Left untreated, exposed plastic does not hold up well out here and tends to degrade. In colder and moderate climates degradation is not much of a problem.

This design is also quite functional and doesn’t interfere with trunk use.




Here is a top I consider the “Queen of tops” because it has history and is aesthetically appealing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IyNzylqpz-c

Then there is the almost Le Mans top. Reminiscent of the old luxury grand tourer XJS this hardtop retains some of the aesthetics of the Le Mans top but has a center cut-away providing unhampered access to the trunk.



The Gardner-Douglas top deviates from the norm. It’s a gull-wing design with windows instead of side curtains. It allows ample access for big guys as well as full access to the trunk.



APE products has a nice looking top with a distinctive centerline dip. It too allows full access to the trunk.




The B and B top is a nice looking, very functional hardtop providing easy access to the trunk.


I still enjoy looking at the unrestricted creativity that went into this design. This good looking and functional top is what happens when a person thinks “out of the box” and isn’t afraid of being different.

---------------------------

We eventually decided to use a Gull-Wing short top for several reasons. First this concept has been around for many years, but more importantly a well designed Gull-Wing seals remarkably well.

Now this concept is extremely viable because we can incorporate the same new and very exciting composites and production techniques used by the aerospace industry during the last few years.

As a consequence, it is now possible to produce an extremely light Gull-Wing hardtop that is leak proof, provides ease of entry for the big guy . . . . and offers additional structural integrity for the occupants while enhancing windshield strength.

What do you think?

[Gene_J]

A last, but major point I neglected to mention. I’d like to sincerely thank everyone for the help, thoughtfulness and guidance that was provided.

Gene

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by SoTxButler

DanEC.....I don't think it has been fitted on an ERA, but the body shape is similar. If you are coming to the Texas Meet in San Marcos, we can see if it would fit your car.

The top comes off very easy...four clips...it can be off in 15 seconds with 2 people.

Well - I'm still building and not up and running yet, but it looks like a nice top and I'll keep it in mind.

Thanks

Dan

[erik w.treves]

here is my old top

[Gene_J]

Very nice. How did you handle the trunk problem?
Gene

[mr bruce]

that top has an opening rear hatch to clear the trunk lid http://www.clubcobra.com/classifieds...=3071&cat=500-