Nut Rivet Tool

[fleiss75]

Anyone ever use one of these? I need to put in my door sills and I wanted something nice and clean. I didnt want to tear into the fiberglass with a sheet metal style screw. I'm guessing that you drill small into the fiberglass and these press into it?

[ERA Chas]

This is what you want. Instructions included.
Alcoa -- Product Catalog: Fastening Systems: Marson Thread-Setterâ„¢ Tool / 39200

[DonC]

Chas' post is the tool you want but it's not a perfect fix for what you describe.
The insert leaves a portion of itself above the surface into which it's installed. Very similar to a pop rivet. The insert holds just like a pop rivet does by expanding below the surface of the material into which it's installed. Additionally the hole is going to be relatively large compared to the size screw you'll be using. I'd recommend you locate some of the nut-serts and take a look at them to see if they'll be acceptable.
Another less elegant solution is to use a coarse thread machine screw and tap the fiberglass to accept it. Not terribly strong though.
DonC

[fleiss75]

That's what I was afraid of using a coarse thread machine screw..But I didnt think about the fact the insert would stick up, I wanted a flush mount. These sills were custom made and really thicker than I thought they would be.

[YerDugliness]

Originally Posted by fleiss75

These sills were custom made and really thicker than I thought they would be.

You could still use the rivet-nuts and just use a drill to make a recess on the back sides of the sills...unless the rivet-nuts stick up WAAAY higher than I visualize.

Cool tool, BTW!!!

Cheers!

Dugly

[byron w]

As I understand. The screws will still be visable from the outside. If so, you can use the little plastic push in inserts like you use in sheet rock to hang a picture or mirror and then screw into it.

Byron

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by YerDugliness

You could still use the rivet-nuts and just use a drill to make a recess on the back sides of the sills...unless the rivet-nuts stick up WAAAY higher than I visualize.

No need Dugly. The flange on a (aluminum or steel) 10-32 poly nut is .022". Hardly a crisis.
If you want them totally flush, simply use a step-drill to make the proper hole size and go to the next cutter up on the drill and make a shallow 'chamfer'.
I replaced every single sheet metal screw on my ERA with these and they are a God send- on removable access panels especially. All are now button-headed allen machine screws in 8-32, 10-32 and 1/4-20.

[flaflier]

Chas,
Do you remember what size you used on your tunnel...that's a great idea for attaching the tunnel down, my floor has a few too many holes right now...

[ERA Chas]

Used 1/4-20 on tunnel and brake access panel. MUCH better.

[flaflier]

Ordering tool tonight, as carpet is going to get done next couple of weeks.

Thank you!

Jim

[elmariachi]

Here is where I ordered mine:

Fastening Concepts: Tools / Kits

[bkozlow]

Have the tool you showed, not really crazy about it. Go back to my old standbys of double 3/4 wrench system. Look at aircraftspruce.com go into tools and put in rivnut tool or part number 12-13700. This should get you to the correct place and see the different sizes available. This type tool lets you get into many place the tool you pictured does not and you have better control of the crunch with the wrench type tool. Remember, if you clamp to tite you destroy the treads and then have to drill out the fastner. Also, the best way to do them in fiberglass is to use a washer underneat if you can get in there.

bill k

[flaflier]

Chas/ElMarachi,
Did you guys use the poly-nut, or the aluminum rivet-nut. Trying to see the difference, looks like the poly-nut is a little closer to flush.

What thickness did you use? Or should I say what is the thickness of the ERA floor?

Thanks again,

Jim

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by flaflier

Chas/ElMarachi,
Did you guys use the poly-nut, or the aluminum rivet-nut.
Jim

I have used both but prefer aluminum for small stuff. If you are careful and you chamfer the hole as Chas says, you can get these things awfully close to flush. when attaching two sections of .040 aluminum sheet, I think I used the .075-.120. I would consider chamfering the back side of your door sill strip to account for any raised surface the rivnut might introduce.

With regard to the tool at aircraftspruce.com, that's fine for the bigger steel rivnuts (but I just use a bolt with two nuts and a double wrench method) but for the smaller nuts like we are talking here, the tool is 100 times quicker and easier than fiddling around with two wrenches trying to collapse the nut.

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by flaflier

Chas/ElMarachi,
Did you guys use the poly-nut, or the aluminum rivet-nut. Trying to see the difference, looks like the poly-nut is a little closer to flush.

What thickness did you use? Or should I say what is the thickness of the ERA floor?

Thanks again,

Jim

I used the poly everywhere. Flange is .022". Don't be concerned about how flush-the panels draw up nice and tight. Don't remember the floor thickness but brake panel is the same. Jim's right-for 90% of what you want to do this tool is faster and gives a good job. 1000 times better than screws and jet-nuts. Buy one extra mandrel in each size you need. Use a step drill for all nice round holes with no burrs. Here's mine:

[Rick Parker]

The Rivnut tool is an excellent design and appears to use the same frame as a Pop Rivet Gun, just different jaws and gripping devices. Many of the smaller quantaties if the thread inserts are packaged with a small too that installs them quite well. It is a combination of a piece of 1/2" diameter hex stock about an inch long with a hole drilled through the length of it. One end is serated. A hex head machine screw (included in the kit) is inserted through the hole and into the thread insert, the assembly is then placed into a drilled hole and an end wrench used to prevent the hex stock from turning while the machine screw is tightened and the insert collapsed in the sheet metal. Once collapsed, the screw is backed out and the installed insert remains. These kits are how the inserts are packaged and sold for the small time user, the gun is nice but the above works well too.

http://www.cardinalcomponents.com/im...l%20Manual.pdf

AND IT'S MADE IN THE USA!!! imagine that!
cardinalcomponents's Channel - YouTube

[lal Naja]

I am a big fan of Riv-Nuts, Nut-Serts and similar. There is a nice range of sizes available in steel, stainless and aluminum. I have the insert gun McMaster Carr # 95585A800 and used it a lot when I first started using these nuts many years ago.

Sometimes in tight spaces I have to use this little tool below and love the way it works.
McMaster-Carr Part #96349A305 page 3271.

However I found that hand wrenching these nuts can take time so one day to speed up the operation I decided to try my power drivers. I have an inexpensive 3/8" pneumatic wrench and a Ryobi 1/4" hex driver impact driver. Both tools are about $40.00 each. AMAZING!!! both tools work effortlessly and with a minimum amount of practice you get perfection every time.

In tight spaces the pneumatic wrench is a godsend.

I've installed 8x32, 10x28 & 32, 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" UNF & UNC with the two power tools. You will have to hold the Nut installer tool with hand wrench which is normally required if you were hand setting it. And for added peace of mind I always hand check what I did with the power tool to make sure I did it tight enough. 95% of the time I nail it with the power tool and no further hand tightening is needed.

Take some scrap fibreglass, plastic, aluminum and steel. Drill a couple of holes and test away. I promise you will love it. Remember your holes MUST be an accurarate size for the Riv-Nut. This is half the battle. Bad size, mis-shapen hole will give poor results and frustration.

When using aluminum Riv-nuts I use antiseize on the thread otherwise you will be drilling them out when the thread galls.

Also, I use locktite locking compound on the outside of the Riv-Nut in metal.

On Fibreglass, after the Riv-Nut is installed, I use thin Super Glue Zap in the pink bottle. Capillary action sucks it into the fiberglass. I do this on both sides of the fastener wherever possible.

As for making the Rriv-Nut flush with the surface a small countersink or counterbore in the surface is all that it takes. If I cannot find the correct counterbore I make my own by grinding down a drill bit. Just make sure you grind a negative cutting edge on the tool for drilling fiberglass. And for drilling fiberglass you should always be using negative cutting edges anyway to get a clean and precise hole. Buy drill bits for plexiglass if you do not know how to grind negative bits. Regular drill bits WILL NOT make clean holes in fibreglass and can actually damage the fibreglass. McMAster Carr also sells drills for plastic/plexiglass if you need a source for making the purchase. Worth every penny and make sure you buy the exact sixe for your Riv-Nut.

Sorry to be so pedantic & verbose.

Hope this helps,

Arthur