Rear end oil cooler

4SECA · #1 (**permalink**) 10-29-2011, 07:04 PM

I'm looking for good set-up pics and pump information on rear end cooler plumbing . Dana 44/CSX/Jag not 8.8 or 9" Ford.
Thanks

mhacars · #2 (**permalink**) 10-29-2011, 07:32 PM

Go to www.wuthitdesigns.com/cobrastory.htm. Scroll down the page and there are a few of the pictures on how the differential cooler was plumbed. My csx is plumbed the same way.

mhacars · #3 (**permalink**) 10-29-2011, 07:34 PM

I made a typo as it is cobrastory

mhacars · #4 (**permalink**) 10-29-2011, 07:38 PM

it is cobrastory

4SECA · #5 (**permalink**) 10-29-2011, 09:31 PM

I have seen that site . It is great to bare bones old school resto.
I was hoping to see more options .FIA type . (ERA FIA)
Thanks for the help

mickmate · #6 (**permalink**) 10-29-2011, 09:42 PM

I have a couple of closer shots of the cooler but you can see it pretty well on 3015. You also see the twin Facet fuel pumps they used. They don't like pumping cold diff oil as they are only fuel pumps so you had to warm the diff oil up to get them to pump. The problem was they were manually switched and often forgotten in the heat of the moment racing them and they still cooked rear ends as they don't work when they're not switched on.

RICK LAKE · #7 (**permalink**) 10-30-2011, 04:37 AM

4SECA Before you go out and buy things, you might want to touch base with Bob at ERA. With the different frame we have there is not alot of open room under the car. I have seen the setup on the orginial cobras like Dick Smiths and have pictures. The room is tight. The other tought is buying a 3 or 4" bildge fan and use the right side foot duct to tap into and run air down the tunnel to help cool the trans and the rearend brakes. If you are going racing, outboard brakes are the better way to go. I run 3 fans under the hood of my car. 2 for getting hot air out of the fender ducts and cool the motor and 1 for cool air down the tunnel. I have fire insolation on the tunnel and it gets hot in the summer. The brakes get soft with the pedal and the trans will not shift smooth after a 15-20 minute run on the track. Moving the dead air out has helped. Weldon sells a differential pump. You will need to drill and tap the jag housing top and bottom, add a cooler that will get some fresh air to it. Wiring with a fuse and relay and switch to run the curcuit. The small fan is cheaper to do and works.
Got to ask, Are you track racing? if not, and just street driving with a visit to the track, you reallly don't need a cooler. Top of the line Diff oil will work fine. Rick L.

4SECA · #8 (**permalink**) 10-30-2011, 08:43 AM

Thanks Rick
I have many hours building Cobras (CSX,ERA.Comtemporary,Bulter).Looking for ERA FIA or 427 rear end cooler pics .
Track car? I say build the car so you can't break it then try to break it.

AL427SBF · #9 (**permalink**) 10-30-2011, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4SECA

Thanks Rick
I have many hours building Cobras (CSX,ERA.Comtemporary,Bulter).Looking for ERA FIA or 427 rear end cooler pics .
Track car? I say build the car so you can't break it then try to break it.

I expect no one will want to waste anymore time with you, those that do are probably bored

Racer_X · #10 (**permalink**) 10-30-2011, 09:59 AM

What about using the pump circuit and power the circuit with ign. switch on, but put in a temperature switch in the bottom of the diff. housing to only turn the pump (s) on when temperature is reached? I've seen Stewart Warner temp switches made for that purpose.