Club Cobra - Show your engine bay

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John,

Those are really awesome pictures of your engine and engine bay. And the rest of these pictures really show a lot of pride and workmanship in their engines and everything. I am jealous. :CRY:

Ron

[quote=legenmetals;1426562]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rawkkrawler (Post 1426431)

Bringing this thread back to life to specifically ask about air cleaners. I've read hundreds of posts on the topic here, but I found this thread as i was looking for ideas as to what i'd use for mine.

Here's the issue, my motor needs to be lifted a bit due to oil pan clearance issues, easy enough. The air cleaner i'm using today is an oval OEM piece with a 3" K&N (E1963), aand it fits perfect. When i dyno'd the engine, Ford Racing 392, it made more power in this configuaration that without a filter at all. And when i ran the stock paper 1 7/8 or whatever stock is, it pulled almost 40hp. I know paper is the worst, but it got me thinking. I see quite a few pics on this thread alone with what appears to be 9" air cleaners with 2" or so height elements. Is it possible that's enough? I can't imagine it would be. The math says a K&N filter would need to be 3" tall with a 14" diameter for a motor at roughly 500hp at 6000rpm, roughly.

My issue goes back to my oval air cleaner with a 3" tall K&N. I'd love to keep it, but can't due to the leading edge hitting the hood. The next size down K&N is at the factory 1 7/8 tall. Is that enough?[/QUOTE

Jeg's and Summit Racing supply drop down air cleaner base for this issue. I am having trouble downloading the link using my phone. But you will find a photo if you search.

The current air cleaner base leaves only 1/8" gap before touching the spark plug wires.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cycleguy55 (Post 1426575)

If you raise the engine you'll not only decrease clearance for your air cleaner, you'll change driveshaft angle and may need to modify your headers.

I had oil pan clearance issues as well, but solved them with a custom oil pan. Sump is about 80% of the length of the pan, with kickouts on both sides. Bottom of the pan sits 1/4" above bottom of frame rails. That's a much better solution, IMO.

100% agree! The C4 rear diff is fixed and the current angle is nearly flat now, so a little angle would help probably. But the sidepipes are a different issue, too close for comfort if I raise the engine a half inch or more, especially with rubber mounts.

I am going to just purchase a lower profile pan and be done with it. The Ford Racing pan is too low and is already listed here in the classifieds section, unfortunatley that's $600 that Summit won't refund on. Cobras aren't cheap!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rawkkrawler (Post 1426686)

That Ford pan is listed as 8.1" deep. Take a look at Armando's #406 pan - it's listed as 7.5" deep, so 0.6" shallower than the Ford pan. Armando can also make you one with a longer, but shallower sump if you need to gain more clearance than that.

I was under my car yesterday and I'd say the sump and kickouts are pretty much full length, except for the rear-most 3". It's relatively shallow on my BBF, with the bottom of the pan above the frame rails, and still holds 11 liters. I also had a bung added for an oil temperature gauge. Armando's price includes a crank scraper and the matching pickup.

Road race oil pan

What is the running oil temp of your 460 Brian?

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdross1 (Post 1426713)

What is the running oil temp of your 460 Brian?

It takes a while to get there, but it's rarely above 230° F - usually tops in the 220° F range. Strictly street / highway use - no track time. Needless to say, I don't feel the need to install an oil cooler.

FWIW, when I first put in the new pan and oil temperature gauge I was surprised at how long it takes the oil to get up to temperature - it's certainly long after the coolant temperature rises. At 70° F ambient temperature it's probably a good 15-20 minutes of driving to get the oil to 220°F temperature. Lower ambient temperatures take longer, as to 'easy driving'.

A good portion of that, I'm sure, is just due to sheer volume - more oil takes longer to get to temperature and a smaller portion of it is flowing through the engine at any point in time, so more time to lose heat through the pan before returning to the engine.

BTW, I'm running a 180°F thermostat and the electric cooling fans kick in around 200°F. I'm also using 5W30 synthetic which supposedly runs cooler than dino oil or heavier weight oils.

Newly installed 502 stroker.

https://i.imgbox.com/O0lPXzlK.jpg

Shelby Aluminum block 482cid Craft

Southern Automotive 427 SO ( 482)

https://i.imgur.com/2E9LKZc.jpg