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03-09-2012, 12:09 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Ocala,
FL
Cobra Make, Engine: Unique 427 S/C, FE 440, top-loader, 3.31
Posts: 130
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Not Ranked
Dual unshrouded fans in front of radiator, Looks or function?
These dual aluminum fans are offered in the ERA and UNIQUE packages and are sold as a kit at Finishline, but do they really do any cooling for a big block or are they just for looks and authenticity?
PS (Plans are coming together to order a UNIQUE this summer) 
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03-09-2012, 12:36 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: No city...only 118 residents in Manter,
KS
Cobra Make, Engine: Cobra Auto Works body, Ron Godell Racecars chassis, 1989 Mustang GT 5.0 HO (converted to carb), W/C T-5, 3.73's in a Ford 9" Traction-Loc.
Posts: 812
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Not Ranked
It will depend on your build and how the air-management is handled.
I have only a single puller fan behind the radiator...as long as it is cool, I don't even need the fan unless I am in extended stop 'n' go driving, but in the hot weather I worry that overheating might be an issue (I have seen a water temperature of 220*, but only b/c I forgot that I had turned the fan off).
Shrouding to keep all the air that goes through the fishmouth opening going through the radiator, too, will help a lot. Mine does well without shrouding on the sides, only shrouding to keep the incoming air from flowing over the top of the radiator.
The only time I ever get "edgy" regarding coolant temp is when I've been sitting in Houston rush-hour traffic for half an hour, outdoor temps are above 100*, and the black asphalt of that 6 lane freeway is sending up enough heat to fry eggs. I posted a thread suggesting that a waterpump-mounted fan might help move hot engine compartment air out more efficiently, but most of the replies convinced me that with some "Water-wetter" coolant additive I don't really have a problem.
We'll see this coming summer when I put it back on the road, I guess.
Cheers, and good luck with your build, from.....
Dugly 
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03-09-2012, 02:22 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Farmington,
CT
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 781, 69' 428CJ, PPG BLACK. ERA 3005 Arctic White 331 SBF
Posts: 280
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I run an ERA with the fans, and as Dugliness states I have only used them in traffic and they work. My car has no shrouding, just the original ERA setup and they worked fine. I don't have a lot of miles on my car yet and I try like hell not to sit in traffic because these cars don't do slow well at all. Uniques are well built cars and whatever you wind up with you;ll love. Good luck to you.
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03-09-2012, 02:53 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Farmingdale,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: Contemporary Classic Motor Car; 427 S/O
Posts: 263
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unshrouded fans
I have dual fans in front on my Contemporary (bb427 S/0), and they have saved me several times in traffic, especially when I had problem with the cooling system overflow. I have a standard electric fan (thermo controlled) on the engine bay side whis is somewhat shrouded as well. If this is a new build, I would get the highest cfm/flow engine bay fan money can buy especially if using a BB 427.
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03-10-2012, 04:11 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA,
Posts: 3,841
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Any thing to move air through a radiator
Young1 I race 95% of the time. The dual fans look cool when running. As far as help in cooling This works both ways. ERA sell there SC car with a splitter in the opening. I know of guys who run this and guys who run fans. Both have no problems with over heating. This is with a street motor like a stock 428 or 427 late motor. This doesn't apply to a 500+ aluminum monster. I do have a 482 in my car at this time. Cooling is ok with steel tubing in the long run for the bottom line from motor to radiator. wire core hoses to prevent collapsing.
With the fans in the opening they block air flow into the radiator. Have to remember that our raditor is at 20 degrees and not straight up and down. It is easier to bend air than force it to turn down.
In traffic any extra air being blow through the radiator will help. If you are in traffic I recomend cracking the hood to give the hot air some where to go. Putting shroud on the radiator will help pull more air through. Finding a higher CFM fan to pull air through would also help. Make sure the wiring is up to it, your charging system can handle the extra amps. Have seen and had my car kill the battery with car running too long at slow speed and all power ideams on. Some guys are running a Ford Tauras fan setup. Have no info on what the CFM and ampage load are for this.
Last thought, boating companies sell 3" and 4" bildge fans. I run one to each side of the car and flow air out the louvers. This bring down the heat under the hood with a 20F drop. Hood needs to be sealed for this to work. Rap the exhaust with heat shields and hi temp raps. Again helps drop the temp under the hood. I have run the raps for 16 years, the pipes are still fine with no rot out holes. They where hi temp coated from ERA. Good luck, Rick L.
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03-10-2012, 02:36 PM
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Seasoned Member
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Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Portsmouth,
VA
Cobra Make, Engine: Unique 427 S/C, Dart 427W "Replica" Ford engine
Posts: 584
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Not Ranked
Young1;
I like my Unique but they do have one problem: the gap between the radiator and the sway bar is only about 2.25". You can get a Spal 16" fan in there but there is no room for a shroud unless you do like Oleblue (another Unique owner) did and fab a large shroud with the sway bar running through it and the fan mounted behind the sway bar. Ask the Weavers about it. Mine is fine with just the Spal fan.
Bill Stradtner
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03-11-2012, 07:20 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Windham,,
Me
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 1,590
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I too wanted the dual fans in front of the rad when building my car,but just to get it on the road put a puller fan on.At first worried about all the air going around the rad and not through it.Had a fabricator make up panels of aluminum to seal all around the rad,forcing all air through the core.The 460 runs 190 degrees all the time maybe 205 stuck in traffic with puller doing it's thing.Still toying with the idea of the dual front fans once totally convinced they work. It's up to you guys to sway me in one direction or the other.
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