Aluminum vs. Iron FE block longevity

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by undy

Heard of s-i-a-m-e-s-e blocks??

Uhh, can't they fix that with some sort of surgery now?

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by Dominik

Thirdly: how much do you weigh ;-)

Thank you! Exactly. Forget the car how about "YOU"?

[lippy]

I've read Siamese cylinders pose their own cooling problems as the coolant cant flow between the Siamesed cylinders. This apparently can lead to uneven cooling and out of round cylinders in extreme cases. Based on the good info in this post and elsewhere, I am starting to lean toward an iron Pond 427/482.

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by tirod

If World or others offered them in the next five years, it would be nice, I'm not planning on it.

The only CGI World considered was the Hemi and I'm not certain if any of those got cast. Certainly not an FE.

[rodneym]

First trend post Carroll Shelby:
NEW iron FE blocks
How popular are they?

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by lippy

I've read Siamese cylinders pose their own cooling problems as the coolant cant flow between the Siamesed cylinders. This apparently can lead to uneven cooling and out of round cylinders in extreme cases. Based on the good info in this post and elsewhere, I am starting to lean toward an iron Pond 427/482.

I'm no genius, but there are probably at least a couple thousand aluminum Pond and Shelby blocks out there running now. I haven't read about any cooling problems, at least related to the alloy blocks. Aluminum should dissipate heat anyway. And the cost difference is a rounding error.

[REAL 1]

I agree with Patrick.

My '65 427SO is still running like a champ.

As far as performance...original 427s won SCCA A production from 1965 to 1972 if I recall. Not too shabby.

Unless your really really looking for a competitive edge I like the original iron. Harder to find now but in the end will be more valuable espeically a nice 427SO.

[Dimis]

Both will probably outlive the car...
& if building new can cost much the same.


However if we are going to play the game & all things being equal:

For period correctness - Iron block
For max horsepower - I'd go iron block
For Racing - Alu block
For road cruising - Either

For my build - Alu block cos' its lighter & it makes sense to me to match the Alu heads and Alu body with the Alu block

[Jamo]

Gosh darn, arruminum is really not the way to go.

I mean for chrissake, just cuz I've run my fairly early Shelby block on tracks, long cruises, through Death Valley, stop and go midsummer in Fresno and idling for a half hour at Fontana in midsummer to recharge the battery at a SAAC...just a terrible hunk to have more than 10k miles.

I'd better get rid of it quick.

[lovehamr]

Jamo, you want me to get a postage $$ to south GA for you?

[RICK LAKE]

Jamo I have CSX#58 and #428. I was looking for a lower number block in the 20's If you hate the motor that much, maybe we can work a deal. I will look around for an iron block with no more that .015" over holes and no welding. Rick L.

[RICK LAKE]

Tirod I am not sure how much aluminum repairs you have done over the years but, I have repaired aluminum blocks with timeserts, not helicoils and to date of 12 years on heads and 7 years on block have no problems or failures to date. On other motors I have had failures of helicoils ripping out clunks of aluminum. It comes down to installing the correct repair application part to any aluminum part. Low torque applications of say valve covers you can get away with helicoils. High pressure area like maincap holes, head bolt holes any thing torqued over 40 ft pounds, IMO needs a timesert. I can only answer for GM, we have 5 different kits for repairing blocks,heads, oil pans, rocker arm bolts in the heads. Again to date have not had to do a repeat repair or replace with a new part IF the timesert is installed correctly. I believe that someone here said that this is all they use on aircraft for repairs.
As far as aluminum motors running hot, have learned that running a larger hole thermostat stops any overheating. This is after 20 minute seasons on the track at speed. I do do more maintainance than I should compared to an iron block motor. When you have small pockets and block cost $5,000.00 per unit and this was 12 years ago, I think you can see why. Rick L.

[mdross1]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

Tirod I am not sure how much aluminum repairs you have done over the years but, I have repaired aluminum blocks with timeserts, not helicoils and to date of 12 years on heads and 7 years on block have no problems or failures to date. On other motors I have had failures of helicoils ripping out clunks of aluminum. It comes down to installing the correct repair application part to any aluminum part. Low torque applications of say valve covers you can get away with helicoils. High pressure area like maincap holes, head bolt holes any thing torqued over 40 ft pounds, IMO needs a timesert. I can only answer for GM, we have 5 different kits for repairing blocks,heads, oil pans, rocker arm bolts in the heads. Again to date have not had to do a repeat repair or replace with a new part IF the timesert is installed correctly. I believe that someone here said that this is all they use on aircraft for repairs.
As far as aluminum motors running hot, have learned that running a larger hole thermostat stops any overheating. This is after 20 minute seasons on the track at speed. I do do more maintainance than I should compared to an iron block motor. When you have small pockets and block cost $5,000.00 per unit and this was 12 years ago, I think you can see why. Rick L.

Bottom line is the correct repair procedure.done right they will be like new.