427 Side Oiler
 

How much value does a 427 FE Side Oiler add to the price of a Replica?

Less than it cost to put it there.:cool:

That depends on the manufacturer of the kit, plus the block, head, and intake casting numbers at the very least.

A side oiler doesn't ADD anything to the price--its a matter of how much the value is reduced by using anything other than a side oiler!!!!!

I have a 427SO that would add $12,500 plus shipping to the cost of your build..........Ron

Specifically a 1968 427 tunnel port NASCAR engine.

What I am looking to determine is if the car is a really good car, what price diff would there be if the car had this 427 vs a 351 in the car.

I would not want a 427 style car that did not have an FE in it. 427s are nicer than 428s that are nicer than 390s. 427s can be prone to more problems, though. That said, if it was as it should be, I might pay a premium of five grand, but no more than ten, for a 427TP over that of a nice 428.

The fit and finish of your replica is just as important, too.
A tunnel port FE 427 is cool and high dollar.

Again casting numbers and specs will help answer your question. Heads, intake, block casting at the very least.

I believe saying that a cobra has a 427 does,.... make a difference. It may not bring thousands to a sale, but sounds impressive and on-lookers love it. It's like having a dual quad or stacked injection.
If built properly, a 427 has no more problems than any other motor, you just need to address what these engines need when building it.

"Build it, and they will come". :cool:

FWIW, when I was putting together the specs for my build seven or so years ago, I made a half-ass search for a nice, unmolested 427SO block, and was not happy with the results (original Ford, not the newer castings). The result was that I went with a very nice 428 block. In my own personal opinion, there's no difference to me between a newer, after-market iron 427SO and an original 428 block. In fact, I would rather have the original block. Nice 428s are getting harder and harder to find, btw. Of course, I would rather have a newer after-market block over any crappy original block.;) Soooo, what that boils down to, IMO, is that a nice, original 427SO block is the best of all worlds, but a nice, original 428 block is more desirable than the newer after-market blocks (and let's just forget the aluminum versus iron thing). Others will no doubt disagree, but that's how I see it....:cool:

Put Another Way...
 

Put another way, if I could wave a magic wand right now and turn my original iron 428, which I am happy with, in to an original iron 427SO, and every other aspect of the build stay exactly the same, with no change in any performance characteristic, or anything else in any way, I would certainly pay the magic wand fairy $3k for that, and, if she caught me in the right mood, I might go to $5k... but I don't think I'd go much higher than that.;)

This to me is representative of what's been lost sight-of in the last decade of replicas.
So many newer guys have no concept of the differences between SO's and other FE's--Other than it's cost, and what value it will add to their cars. And many just have SO's built to go to the lawn shows on Sunday and wow the sheep with the magic 'SO' word.
You Pat want to saddle an SO with a 400HP combination so you can just say it's an SO-or possibly increase the car's re-sale. Your 428 is ideal for your usage. But SO's, being priority main engines with over- square architecture, were made for more power and abuse than top oilers with long strokes. A 4.23 bore is ideal for 2.250 valves but is wasted on an engine built entirely for mild street use. There's nothing wrong in a well built 428 for street use and amazingly some are built by pros to run 9's in nostalgia racing.
What's lost on many is their intended usage does not include a steady diet of 6500+RPM in a properly geared car. All the threads are about what cruising RPM is comfortable on the highway.
The OP doesn't state but I'd like to know why he's considering a Nascar Tunnel Port (NOT a street engine unless emasculated with low compression and soft cam) for what I assume is a replica. Will he compete in a venue that requires top-end power or ET's? If it's for a Nascar Galaxy vintage racer-great.
I'll go a lot further and piss-off a lot of guys now-but it's my honest opinion.
Only four (427) replicas should have SO's (provided they're used as the design intended): KMP's, CSX's, ERA's and CCX's.
All the others, do fine with Windsors-or Chevys. The serious guys that race have proven Windsors are superb and (often preferred) track engines. All the others have demonstrated (by their acceptance of the compromised car makes) that they're totally unconcerned by the original nature of Cobras and just want a hand-built roadster for fun street driving. The mania about putting a numbers-match, date coded SO with points dizzy in a replica with (as example) a 96" wheelbase or other parameters alien to the original car is for talking points only. With those totally unfamiliar with the subject in the first place.
Disagree but don't bash-it's my opinion, just like you're entitled.

I agree with your post.

Thanks-we don't often agree but I appreciate you saying so.
Now only 14,000 other members will throw rocks....

The reason I am mentioning the 427 Nascar Tunnel port engine is that I am looking at a Car with that engine. Its got loads of work done to it and has approx 12:1 Compression. Has a ton of DOVE parts. Current owner adds a few gals of VP C16 fuel with hi test. I have the full list of the engine build but its quite lengthy. Actually had higher comp but he had the engine rebuilt recently and shimmed the head, little massaging and dropped some of the compression. My intended use is a fun car. Take it to car show nights, blast to dinner/breakfast, rally here or there. NOT going to be racing whatsoever. Now I know this is going to be a bit more temperamental than a 351 etc, but I do like unique vehicles. Other than not being an optimal street engine and the need to throw in some race fuel, what other negatives and I not seeing with this motor. This is my first Cobra and have had tons of exotics but a total newbie with this, even though I have done a ton of research and have learned quite a bit over the past few months.
Thanks for the input.

No. You will not be happy with that engine. It is a poor choice for what you want to do.:(

I agree.

Specifically-it will make more heat to reject than a hydraulic 428. It will never run cool for 'street use'. Also, depending how much cam it has it will idle around 1100 and not happily. It won't loaf along in traffic without a lot of temperament. It's not an LS Vette with AC. There is nothing to like below 3500RPM for your use. How much power did the builder show you it made?
A hydraulic roller top oiler will make excellent torque for what you want without temperament-you don't need side-oiling -why spend for it?

After playing with my 428 in my gt500 for the last 37 years I came to the conclusion that a small block can be just as fun. If you have to have an FE then go for it. I ended up with a small block in my replica for several reasons. #1, cost to build. #2 ease of maintainence. #3, the overall drivabilty seems to always be better in a small car. The resale factor has never been an issue with me. I am one of those people who drive what I like without worrying about what other people think. It has worked out great for me. The whole reason for building one was to drive it not to go to car shows. But thats just me.