Which Gaskets Do I need?

[zzmac]

I've got a small leak coming from my water pump gasket. It's on a Roush 402. I haven't removed it yet but there appears to be a thin metal plate behind the pump and then the gasket. Any special gaskets being used for this nowadays or just a regular gasket will do. Anyone have a part number (Napa / Ford)) for me.

Also I might as well change the gaskets on the piece under the expansion tank that connects to the block. Any part numbers for these two small gakets?

Do I need to bother with gasket goo too or just put the gaskets on dry?

Thanks in advance for your help.

[blykins]

You'll have to determine if it's leaking from the gasket between the pump/timing cover, the gasket between the backing plate/water pump, or leaking from the weep hole in the water pump.

Any water pump gasket will work, just get one from Napa, Autozone, Advance, etc.

If your expansion tank bolts to the intake like a thermostat housing, you just need a regular thermostat housing gasket.

As for the gaskets, I use an extremely thin coat of black RTV on both sides.

[zzmac]

I think it's the gasket between the backing plate/water pump but what's involved if it's the weeping hole (not sure what that is)?

[blykins]

The weep hole is the hole that's on the bottom of the water pump snout right behind the pulley. It would indicate a bearing that's gone bad and the pump would need rebuilt or replaced.

[madmaxx]

If it is a gasket between the water pump and backing plate use Loctite on the bottom bolts they are impossible to tighten once on the car. It is a pos design.

[tirod]

Hmm.

If it's weeping from the water pump hole, it's the seal gone bad. It washes the grease from the bearing shortly thereafter.

Be careful with picking the correct gasket, as Ford has more than one water pump gasket shape, depending on which of 4 or 5 timing covers might have been used on that motor. They are not all the same.

Tightening the water pump bolts is a matter of mechanical skill. The design has been around for decades, millions of owners have done it without difficulty. If anything, the long bolt on the extreme outside of the pump needs to be completely lubricated if an aluminum pump body is used, to prevent corrosion. Electrolysis is a problem when it is on the motor for 100k miles.

Since you can't give a counterperson the make, year, model of what timing cover and water pump was used, it will likely be helpful to 1) ask Roush what they used, or 2) take the pump and remaining gasket fragments to match it.

Is it V belt or Serpentine? The pumps rotate opposite each other, check carefully.

[Roush #1]

You will not be able to determine which gaskets you need until you see which ones failed - and then you will need the old gaskets as the 351 W used multiple (6 or 7) different configurations on the water pumps.
You might also want to look at the type of antifreeze you are using. My Roush engine didn't like Dex-Cool and leaked after a couple of months. Changed the gaskets and it did the same thing again. I called Roush and they suggested changing the antifreeze. Changed to Motorcraft Premium Gold and no leaks with over 20K miles.
Just offering tips based on what happened to me.
Good luck with your efforts!

[blykins]

Depending on which gasket set you get, it will usually come with all different gaskets for the water pump. Just match up one to your timing cover and water pump and you'll be just fine. I usually prefer Mr. Gasket or ROL timing cover/pump gaskets as they are black and don't stick out like a sore thumb.

[zzmac]

Thanks everyone for your help. Got the pump off and will go searching for gaskets now. Once everything's back together I'll flush the engine next week and change the antifreeze.